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Knitted Daily Sky Scarf

Hello, my fellow knitters. I am starting an ongoing project. I will be recording a daily sky in my approximately 72" long scarf. Every day, I will be posting my progress on THIS particular page. If you would like to join me in this knit-along project then save this page and return to it for day-by-day short narratives updates, including images, charts, links to other pages, and videos of this pattern. (I would like to do a live recording too, but I need to learn how to set up my computer. So, that idea is still in the air. Not sure if that will happen though. But it would be nice, right?)

Please, note that the scarf will be knitted length-wise because I would like to use each "new daily yarn strand" for a fringe - that way I do not have to weave in the tails. Smart idea, right?

Today, I will share with you:

  • some charts (see below)
  • a link to the "cable" pattern I will be using for this scarf (CLICK HERE)
  • and what materials I will be using
If you would like to print any of the charts, you can click on the image to make it bigger and then print it. About the materials - you can substitute with your own choice of yarn - a scarf doesn't need to be exact, it can be a little narrower/wider or shorter/longer. Your knitting needles should correspond with a manufacturer's recommendation that is printed on the label. So let's do it.

VIDEO TUTORIALS:

FOR VIDEO "INTRO TO THIS PROJECT" CLICK HERE

VIDEO #2 - Per WRITTEN PATTERN Rows 7-10; & Per CHART Rows 1-5

Keep track of your yarn (next to each sky image), date and what # of daily sky (in the empty rectangles)

In the image below I am showing how I calculated my stitches for the scarf. I will make either two to three (and possibly even four) 20-row repeats - I am not sure just yet.
  1. In a first step, I figured out total stitches I will need for 72" long scarf (I like them long). If there are ~20 stitches in 4", then in 72" there are 360 sts (if you want shorter scarf, you need to figure out how many stitches will fit into your inches, then you will have to figure out how many repeats will fit into your total stitches)
  2. My pattern calls for 16-stitch repeats, I figured that I will need about 21 repeats + extra stitches for each to get as close to 360 sts. With 21 repeats of 16-stitch pattern plus 10 sts for both 

This chart will help you figure out stitches for the length of your scarf


Materials (if you shop online via my affiliated links below, I would get few pennies, which would help to fund my future projects TXS):
Michaels online store, OR Hobby Lobby, OR Jo-Ann Fabrics, OR Walmart 

Yarn - any yarn of medium weight (#4, worsted) - your choice;  I am using: Cascade Yarns, Cascade 220, worsted weight #4, 100g/3.5 oz; 220 yds/200 m; Colors:  8905 (light blue), 8505 (white), 9559 (light gray), 9325 (medium blue), 9567 (dark blue), 8400 (dark gray)
Circular knitting needles -  US #8 (5.00 mm)
Scissors

These are my Yarn Samples paired with different types of skies


Abbreviations:
CO - cast on
K - knit
P - purl
sts - stitches
M - place marker between the stitches
CR(K2/K2) - right-leaning cable with K2/K2 sts = slip 2 sts on the cable needle and place the cable needle in the back of your work, knit next 2 sts, then knit 2 sts from cable needle
CL(K2/K2) - left-leaning cable with K2/K2 sts = slip 2 sts on the cable needle and place the cable needle in the front of your work, knit next 2 sts, then knit 2 sts from cable needle
CR(K2/P2) - right-leaning cable with K2/P2 sts = slip 2 sts on the cable needle and place the cable needle in the back of your work, knit next 2 sts, then purl 2 sts from cable needle
CL(P2/K2) - left-leaning cable with P2/K2 sts = slip 2 sts on the cable needle and place  the cable needle in the front of your work, purl next 2 sts, then knit 2 sts from cable needle
BO - bind off

Gauge:
My gauge corresponds to a manufacturer's gauge on the yarn label, however, it is not as important in this project

Size:
Lenght: ~72"
Width: undecided (per my likeness)


Step-by-Step:

CO 346 sts on circular needles (5.00 mm)
Please, note that day = row, ie. Day 1 = Row 1 or Day 23 = Row 23

Day 1-5           K346
Day 6              K5, M, *[K16, M]* - repeat until your last 5 sts, K5


  • Update #1 - February 11, 2018

Today I finished my 5 rows. Tomorow I have to knit one more row of knit stitches. As I will be knitting the row I will be inserting markers between the stitches for my next row, that is for row 7 - I made a change to my pattern above. And below are my skies in the last 5 days 😊

YARN COLORS BY DAILY SKY:  Day 1 - #2, Day 2 - #3, Day 3 - #3, Day 4 - #2, Day 5 - #4



  • Update #2 - February 14, 2018 (HAPPY VALENTINE'S DAY, BTW 💝 )

    Now we are getting into cables. You will have to pay big attention to right-leaning and left_leaning cables, PLUS if you will be knitting all four sts of your cable, or purling2/knitting2 OR knitting2/purling2. It is very important to concentrate on your knitting (no distractions!!) so you get that beautiful 3D pattern. You do not want to frog anything, right?
Day 7                   K-edge, M, *[P4, CR(K2/K2)CL(K2/K2), P4, M]* - repeat; then K-edge
Day 8 (Feb14th)  K-edge, M, *[P16, M]* - repeat; then K-edge
Day 9                   K-edge, M, *[P2, CR(K2/P2),  K4,  CL(P2/K2), P2, M]* - repeat; then K-edge

    • Update #2 - February 16, 2018

    Link to the finished VIDEO #2 (for righties) is mentioned above. But I must warn you - I made a big "booboo" which I am explaining somewhere toward the end of the video (on day 10) - so pay attention to what happened. It is not affecting the pattern if you did it right - unlike me 🙄. Luckily I didn't have to re-record the rows again - but the number of stitches in my scarf's edge are different now, so I altered "K5" to "K-edge" in the written pattern.
    As you see it is turning into an adventure 😀. By the time I am finished with this scarf, we should have this pattern written without mistakes. Hopefully 😁.
Day 10                 K-edge, M, *[P4, K2, P4, K2, P4, M]* - repeat; then K-edge

  • Update #3 - February 22, 2018
The third video (for righties) is being edited and will be up for viewing as soon as it is uploaded.

Day 11                  K-edge, M, *[CR(K2/P2), P2, K4,  P2, CL(P2/K2), M]* - repeat; then K-edge
Day 12                  K-edge, M, *[P2, K4, P4, K4, P2, M]* - repeat; then K-edge
Day 13                  K-edge, M, *[K2, P2, CR(K2/P2), CL(P2/K2), P2, K2, M]* - repeat; then K-edge
Day 14                  K-edge, M, *[P2, K2, P8, K2, P2, M]* - repeat; then K-edge
Day 15                  K-edge, M, *[K2, CR(K2/P2),  P4, CL(P2/K2), K2, M]* - repeat; then K-edge
Day 16                  K-edge, M, *[P16, M]* - repeat; then K-edge


TO BE CONTINUED...

***

DID YOU FIND ERRORS? Let me know on what page of my blog, and in which row by clicking HERE, and I will fix it as soon as I get to it. You can PM me on my FB Page HERE as well. Txs!
Also if you haven't subscribed to my HandmadeRukodelky Channel, you can do it HERE. There are many videos to be seen, too.

*******************************************************************************


Copyright page - click HERE



PLEASE, COMMENT ON YOUTUBE BELOW MY VIDEOS, AND/OR SHARE YOUR IMAGES OF YOUR RECREATED WORKS ON MY FB PAGE HERE :-)




Note: Most of the time I work as fast as I can to keep up with knitting and crocheting requests. I have to videotape, edit videos, then convert them & upload them to my channel. After that often I post on my blog patterns. I answer many questions, which means that often I work up to 16 hours a day. I would tremendously appreciate IF anyone of you who finds an error in the written pattern, so please, let me know - where (what rows) and what may be the problem. Many future knitters & crocheters from our artsy and crafty virtual world will thank you for your good deed, including myself.

Little Hats Big Hearts Project - Red Hat 4 Newborns


A couple of months ago, my friend (fabulous and talented Iris) shared a link to the "LITTLE HATS BIG HEARTS" project with me. In it, the AMERICAN HEART ASSOCIATION asked knitters and crocheters in the US to make red hats for NEWBORN BABIES to raise awareness for "Congenital Heart Defects."
The requested specifics are that yarn needs to be: red, cotton or acrylic, medium to heavy weight, and machine washable and dryable.
I got excited about this project and decided not only to make these hats, but also to write two patterns for my followers (one for hat knitted in the round, and one for hat knitted on straight knitting needles), and make three videos of hats - one knitted with DPNs, one knitted with circulars and one knitted on straight needles. And on top of that, these three videos for right-handed edit also for left-handed knitters (total six videos).
Although I am not very strong in the English style of knitting, I included few times both versions - the Continental style of knitting and English too.

For the two hats knitted either with DPNs or circular needles, you need to know how to knit in the round. The hat knitted on straight needles is more comfortable to knit, but then you have to deal with a seam. However, all you need to know, to knit these hats, is how to cast on, how to knit and purl, how to bind off, and for hat knitted flat also how to sew or crochet the two side seams together.

I know it is already February, and hospitals may not accept hats anymore (please check either with your local hospital OR with American Heart Association if they are still accepting hats in your area). However, you could make a newborn hat with hearts for Valentine's baby, or for your family member or a friend that will be Mom soon.

This hat is not only great about spreading the awareness about "Congenital Heart Defects," but also just for giving a hat with heart - also a meaning for LOVE. And while you are reading this, please, check out my "SHAKEN BABY SYNDROME PURPLE HAT" post - which I wrote awhile back about another so much needed awareness. There is a free written pattern, plus links to videos for right-handed and left-handed knitters. Spread the love, and spread the wisdom you learn from reading educational articles online (click on the provided links throughout this article).

Thank you all.

BELOW ARE LINKS FOR THE SIX VIDEOS - FOR RIGHTIES AND LEFTIES: 

CLICK HERE FOR HAT #1 KNITTED ON DPNs FOR RIGHTIES
CLICK HERE FOR HAT #1 KNITTED ON DPNs FOR LEFTIES

CLICK HERE FOR HAT #2 KNITTED ON CIRCULARS FOR RIGHTIES
CLICK HERE FOR HAT #2 KNITTED ON CIRCULARS FOR LEFTIES
In these two videos, you will see a good demonstration of using a so-called "magic loop" while knitting with circular needles.

CLICK HERE FOR HAT #3 KNITTED ON STRAIGHT NEEDLES FOR RIGHTIES
CLICK HERE FOR HAT #3 KNITTED ON STRAIGHT NEEDLES FOR LEFTIES


Abbreviations:
CO - cast on
DPN - double pointed needles
K - knit
P - purl
M - marker
K2tog - knit 2 stitches together
BO - bind off by pulling yarn through remaining sts
sl sts - slip stitches

Gauge:
My gauge corresponds to a manufacturer's gauge on any yarn label

Materials (if you shop online via my affiliated links below, I would get few pennies, which would help to fund my future projects TXS):
Michaels online store, OR Hobby Lobby, OR Jo-Ann Fabrics, OR Walmart 
Yarn - any washable red, acrylic, medium weight (#4, worsted) - see below which ones I used
Knitting needles - all these hats were knitted on same sized needles: US #7 (4.5mm)
Hook - I used 4mm hook
Yarn Needle (for weaving in the tail, optional)
Scissors

Size:
Circumference: 12"-13"
Height: 5"


HAT #1 - KNITTED ON DPNs - about 1/4 ball of yarn by Loops & Threads, Impeccable; medium worsted #4; color Cherry; 100% acrylic
&
HAT #2 - KNITTED ON CIRCULARS - about 1/4 ball of yarn by Red Heart, Super Saver; medium worsted #4; color Hot Red; 100% acrylic

HAT #1

HAT #2


Step-by-Step:

CO 54 sts on long needles (4.5 mm)

Row 1              knit the first row of ribbing as such: *(K1, P1)* - repeat to end; then distribute stitches evenly among 3 DPNs (18-18-18 sts on each needle), OR move your sts onto your circular knitting needles; then join into circle (make sure stitches are not twisted when joining)
Rnd 2-8           *(K1, P1)* - repeat 27x in each row
Rnd 9-11          K54, in 11th round place M every 9 sts
Rnd 12-13        *[K4, P1, K4]* - 6x
Rnd 14-15        *[K3, P3, K3]* - 6x
Rnd 16-17        *[K2, P5, K2]* - 6x
Rnd 18-19        *[K1, P7, K1]* - 6x
Rnd 20-21        *[K1, P3, K1, P3, K1]* - 6x
Rnd 22             *[K2, P1, K3, P1, K2]* - 6x
Rnd 23-26         K54 - remove your M
Rnd 27              *[K4, K2tog]* - 9x
Rnd 28              K45
Rnd 29              *[K3, K2tog]* - 9x
Rnd 30              K36
Rnd 31              *[K2, K2tog]* - 9x
Rnd 32              K27
Rnd 33              *[K1, K2tog]* - 9x

You will have 18 sts left on your needles - elongate your last knitted stitch by pulling it and pull it through remaining stitches with a hook. Make a knot, and weave in your tails on the inside of your hat.


HAT #3 - KNITTED ON STRAIGHT KNITTING NEEDLES - about 1/4 ball of yarn by Caron, Simply Soft; medium worsted #4; color Autumn Red; 100% acrylic

HAT #3


Step-by-Step:

CO 54 sts on long needles (4.5 mm)

Row 1-8           *(K1, P1)* - repeat 27x in each row
Rnd 9               K54
Rnd 10             P 54
Rnd 11             K54
Rnd 12             P 54
Rnd 13            *[K4, P1, K4]* - 6x
Rnd 14            *[P4, K1, P4]* - 6x
Rnd 15            *[K3, P3, K3]* - 6x
Rnd 16            *[P3, K3, P3]* - 6x
Rnd 17            *[K2, P5, K2]* - 6x
Rnd 18            *[P2, K5, P2]* - 6x
Rnd 19            *[K1, P7, K1]* - 6x
Rnd 20            *[P1, K7, P1]* - 6x
Rnd 21            *[K1, P3, K1, P3, K1]* - 6x
Rnd 22            *[P1, K3, P1, K3, P1]* - 6x
Rnd 23             *[K2, P1, K3, P1, K2]* - 6x
Rnd 24             P 54 - remove your M
Rnd 25             K54
Rnd 26             P 54
Rnd 27             *[K4, K2tog]* - 9x
Rnd 28             P45
Rnd 29             *[K3, K2tog]* - 9x
Rnd 30             P36
Rnd 31             *[K2, K2tog]* - 9x
Rnd 32             P27
Rnd 33             *[K1, K2tog]* - 9x

You will have 18 sts left on your needles - elongate your last knitted stitch by pulling it and pull it through remaining stitches with a hook. Make a knot, sew or crochet your sides together and weave in your tails on the inside of your hat. If you will crochet your sides (see the video knitting with straight needles) use sl sts - do not crochet with single crochet stitches, it would be too thick.

Donated hats - thank you Iris for the idea and hats!


***

DID YOU FIND ERRORS? Let me know on what page of my blog, and in which row by clicking HERE, and I will fix it as soon as I get to it. You can PM me on my FB Page HERE as well. Txs!
Also if you haven't subscribed to my HandmadeRukodelky Channel, you can do it HERE. There are many videos to be seen, too.

*******************************************************************************


Copyright page - click HERE



PLEASE, COMMENT ON YOUTUBE BELOW MY VIDEOS, AND/OR SHARE YOUR IMAGES OF YOUR RECREATED WORKS ON MY FB PAGE HERE :-)




Note: Most of the time I work as fast as I can to keep up with knitting and crocheting requests. I have to videotape, edit videos, then convert them & upload them to my channel. After that often I post on my blog patterns. I answer many questions, which means that often I work up to 16 hours a day. I would tremendously appreciate IF anyone of you who finds an error in the written pattern, so please, let me know - where (what rows) and what may be the problem. Many future knitters & crocheters from our artsy and crafty virtual world will thank you for your good deed, including myself.

Unicorn Legwarmers

Legwarmers or Armwarmers
I designed these "Sweet Taffy Legwarmers" with ballerinas on my mind. I pictured them wearing crocheted legwarmers as they practice their tendu, plie or pirouette. But let's not limit ourselves to who can wear these legwarmers and how. People that feel cold in the fall, winter, and spring (such as myself) can enjoy crocheted "legwarmers", or wear these as "armwarmers 😊 ".

This pattern is not for utter beginners. However, if you are a little skilled and adventurous crocheter and if you watch my video, you may be able to work on this project even if you don't have a whole lot of experience. The video is so detailed that a few less experienced crocheters may find it helpful and embrace it as a push forward to try something new.

Below you will find two patterns - one for very slim legs (mine, LOL) and one for a newborn baby. However, you can make these for anyone. If it comes to a width, first, you should crochet enough chain stitches to wrap around the widest area of your leg (upper part, or a calf). Then count them and make sure the total number is a multiple of 4 (such as 24, 36, 48, 56, 60, etc.) For example, if you make a chain of 62 sts than your nearest number to work with would be 60 sts. It is better to make it one or two stitches smaller because the legwarmers will stretch. I started legwarmers for myself with 50 stitches, but it would have been better to make 48 chain stitches to start with. It would eliminate the extra 2 stitches I had to "get rid of" when I started the design after the ribbing. I started the legwarmers for a newborn baby with 30 sts. However, to make it easier for myself I should have started it with 28 sts (for slimmer legs), or with 32 sts (for chubbier legs). Here too, I had to eliminate 2 sts when I started to crochet the design part. I will write the Newborn pattern with 28 stitches, to make it easier on you. If you want to make it for an older child, then just add one or more extra 4-chain repeats.

For the length do this: measure a distance between the upper part and the ankle area, and crochet until you reach the desired length. If you would like your legwarmers to have a gathered look, then I would make few extra rows. Good luck and enjoy.

CLICK  HERE  4  VIDEO  4  RIGHTIES
CLICK  HERE  4  VIDEO  4  LEFTIES


If you'd shop yarn on-line via my affiliate links below, I'd get few pennies, which would help to fund my future projects TXS):
Michaels online store, OR Hobby Lobby, OR Jo-Ann Fabrics, OR Walmart 

Size:
Adult
Upper leg measurement: 14" (stretches to 16", and holds OK on tights)
Length: approx. 26"
Newborn
Upper leg measurement: 7" (stretches to 8", and holds OK on tights)
Length: 6"

Materials:
1 ball of yarn that is lightweight #3; I used Lion Brand Yarns, Mandala, Unicorn color; 100% acrylic; 5.3 oz/150 g; 590 yds/540m (if you want to match up variegated colors, you will need 2 balls)
Hook size 5mm
Yarn needle
Scissors


Size:
Varies

Gauge:
4"x4" = 12 dc sts x 7 dc rows

Abbreviations:
ch - chain
dc - double crochet
hdc - half double crochet
sc - single crochet
fpdc - crochet dc through front post of dc from prev. row
bpdc - crochet dc through back post of dc from prev. row
join - join with a slip stitch

Step-by-Step

Make 2

Foundation (according to video) - ch50, join

Work on your "ribbing":
Rnd 1           ch3 (counts as dc), then 1 dc into next 49 consecutive ch sts, join (total 50 sts)
Rnd 2-10      ch2 (counts as dc), then *[1 fpdc, 1 bpdc]* - 24x; then 1 fpdc, join to ch2  (total 50 sts)

Work on your pattern:
Rnd 11         ch3, then 3 dc in the same base as ch3 (4dc-cluster), skip 4 sts, 4 dc in 5th ch st, *[skip 3 sts, 4 dc in 4th ch st]* - repeat 10x = until last 4 sts, skip these 4 sts, join into ch3 (total 12 "4dc-clusters")
(Note: if you will make foundation with multiples of 4, then you will always skip only 3 sts and make 4 dc in 4th st)
Rnd 12        ch2, *[skip 3 sts, 1 dc in 4th st, ch2, 1 dc in first skipped st]* - repeat 11x OR until you have 3 sts left - skip these 3 sts, make 1 dc into the base of ch2 in the beginning of the row, ch2, then 1 dc into first skipped st and join into 2 chain sts (in the spot where first dc and ch2 meet)

Note: from now on you will repeat Rnd 13 & 14 until your desired length
Rnd 13       slip stitch into ch2 space; then start your first cluster with ch3, then 3 dc in the same base as ch3 (4dc-cluster), *[skip 3 sts, 4 dc in 4th ch st]* - 11x; join (total 12 "4dc-clusters")
Rnd 14        ch2, *[skip 3 sts, 1 dc in 4th st, ch2, 1 dc in first skipped st]* - repeat 11x OR until you have 3 sts left - skip these 3 sts, make 1 dc into the base of ch2 in the beginning of the row, ch2, then 1 dc into first skipped st and join into 2 chain sts (in the spot where first dc and ch2 meet)

Repeat Rnd 13 & 15 as many times as needed.


Finishing:
After you finish your desired length, your last row should be the "criss-cross" row. To make the bottom flare out a little, first you will work your dc-cluster differently then finish with a tiny scalloped edge created by slip stitches, single crochet stitches and half double crochet stitches this way:

Rnd 1       slip stitch into ch2 space; then start your first cluster with ch3, then 4 dc in the same base as ch3 (5dc-cluster), *[skip 3 sts, 4 dc in 4th ch st, skip 3 sts, 4 dc in 4th ch st]* - alternate these 4- and 5-dc clusters to end; join (total 12 "dc-clusters")
Rnd 2       In 5-dc clusters make *[1 sc, 2 hdc, 1 sc, sl st]*; and in 4-dc clusters make *[1 sc, 1 hdc, 1 sc, sl st]* - alternate to end         


LEGWARMERS FOR A NEWBORN

Make 2

Foundation (according to video) - ch28, join

Work on your "ribbing":
Rnd 1           ch3 (counts as dc), then 1 dc into next 27 consecutive ch sts, join (total 28 sts)
Rnd 2-5      ch2 (counts as dc), then *[1 fpdc, 1 bpdc]* - 13x; then 1 fpdc, join to ch2  (total 28 sts)

Work on your pattern:
Rnd 6         ch3, then 3 dc in the same base as ch3 (4dc-cluster), *[skip 3 sts, 4 dc in 4th ch st]* - repeat 6x = until last 3 sts, skip these 3 sts, join into ch3 (total 7 "4dc-clusters")
(Note: if you will make foundation with multiples of 4, then you will always skip only 3 sts and make 4 dc in 4th st)
Rnd 7        ch2, *[skip 3 sts, 1 dc in 4th st, ch2, 1 dc in first skipped st]* - repeat 6x OR until you have 3 sts left - skip these 3 sts, make 1 dc into the base of ch2 in the beginning of the row, ch2, then 1 dc in first skipped st and join into 2 chain sts (in the spot where first dc and ch2 meet)

Note: from now on you will repeat Rnd 13 & 14 until your desired length
Rnd 8       slip stitch into ch2 space; then start your first cluster with ch3, then 3 dc in the same base as ch3 (4dc-cluster), *[skip 3 sts, 4 dc in 4th ch st]* - 6x; join (total 7 "4dc-clusters")
Rnd 9        ch2, *[skip 3 sts, 1 dc in 4th st, ch2, 1 dc in first skipped st]* - repeat 6x OR until you have 3 sts left - skip these 3 sts, make 1 dc into the base of ch2 in the beginning of the row, ch2, then 1 dc in first skipped st and join into 2 chain sts (in the spot where first dc and ch2 meet)

Repeat Rnd 8 & 9 as 2x (or as many times as needed).

Finishing:
After you finish your desired length, your last row should be the "criss-cross" row. To make the bottom flare out a little, first you will work your dc-cluster differently then finish with a tiny scalloped edge created by slip stitches, single crochet stitches and half double crochet stitches this way:

Rnd 1       slip stitch into ch2 space; then start your first cluster with ch3, then 4 dc in the same base as ch3 (5dc-cluster), *[skip 3 sts, 4 dc in 4th ch st, skip 3 sts, 4 dc in 4th ch st]* - alternate these 4- and 5-dc clusters to end (you will finish with 5-dc cluster); join (total 7 "dc-clusters") - weave in all ends.   





***

DID YOU FIND ERRORS? Let me know on what page of my blog, and in which row by clicking HERE, and I will fix it as soon as I get to it. You can PM me on my FB Page HERE as well. Txs!
Also if you haven't subscribed to my HandmadeRukodelky Channel, you can do it HERE. There are many videos to be seen, too.

*******************************************************************************


Copyright page - click HERE



PLEASE, COMMENT ON YOUTUBE BELOW MY VIDEOS, AND/OR SHARE YOUR IMAGES OF YOUR RECREATED WORKS ON MY FB PAGE HERE :-)




Note: Most of the time I work as fast as I can to keep up with knitting and crocheting requests. I have to videotape, edit videos, then convert them & upload them to my channel. After that often I post on my blog patterns. I answer many questions, which means that often I work up to 16 hours a day. I would tremendously appreciate IF anyone of you who finds an error in the written pattern, so please, let me know - where (what rows) and what may be the problem. Many future knitters & crocheters from our artsy and crafty virtual world will thank you for your good deed, including myself.

Easy Crocheted Belt

Crocheted belt from a cotton thread
About a month ago I received a message via Facebook if I would, please, make a video of my belt that I published on my blog eon years ago (actually it was published January 6, 2010 - so it is almost like an anniversary). My daughter loved that belt and wore it a lot.
I told this nice lady that when I return home I will make a video of how to make such a belt. This time I made a belt for myself and as I was making it I videotaped the process. It is made from a thin thread, but the tread can be substituted by any cotton thread or yarn, provided that the crocheter adjusts the number of starting chain stitches. The video that I made is VERY detailed with several tips of my work process.
Working with a thinner thread (yarn) requires nimble fingers. The thicker thread (yarn) is easier to work with. Chose the thickness according to your dexterity in order to enjoy making this belt.

For videos "How To Crochet Easy Belt" click on either link below:

RIGHT-HANDED CROCHETERS CLICK HERE
LEFT-HANDED CROCHETERS CLICK HERE

Size:
Varies according to whom you are making it for = how wide and long you will make your belt (see videos for tips)

Abbreviations:
ch - chain
sc - single crochet


Materials:
1 ball of
Thinner Yarn/Thread - Aunt Lydia's  Crochet Thread No. 10
Hook - Stainless Steel Size 7 (1.65mm)
OR
Thicker thread/yarn - Paton's "Grace Cotton Yarn"
Hook - Stainless Size C (2.75mm)
OR
Thicker thread/yarn - Premier's "Cotton Flair"
Hook - Stainless Size C (3.50mm)

Scissors


Step-by-Step:

Foundation: make as many chain stitches as needed to correspond with a width of your pants/jean's belt loop (thinner yarn will require a higher number of chain stitches than thicker yarn). For my belt (see video links above), I crocheted 13 chain stitches as my foundation.

Row 1               1 sc into second ch from hook (12 sc sts)
Row 2-??          1 sc into each st from previous row (12 sc sts), make as many rows as needed for the length of the belt minus about 2 inches (the crocheted belt is stretchy - see tips in my video)

Finish video by attaching long strings, then making two rows of knots, then making a big knot and finally braiding the strings and forming tassels by tie-ing braids - see either video mentioned above for visual help.

***

DID YOU FIND ERRORS? Let me know on what page of my blog, and in which row by clicking HERE, and I will fix it as soon as I get to it. You can PM me on my FB Page HERE as well. Txs!
Also if you haven't subscribed to my HandmadeRukodelky Channel, you can do it HERE. There are many videos to be seen, too.

*******************************************************************************


Copyright page - click HERE



PLEASE, COMMENT ON YOUTUBE BELOW MY VIDEOS, AND/OR SHARE YOUR IMAGES OF YOUR RECREATED WORKS ON MY FB PAGE HERE :-)




Note: Most of the time I work as fast as I can to keep up with knitting and crocheting requests. I have to videotape, edit videos, then convert them & upload them to my channel. After that often I post on my blog patterns. I answer many questions, which means that often I work up to 16 hours a day. I would tremendously appreciate IF anyone of you who finds an error in the written pattern, so please, let me know - where (what rows) and what may be the problem. Many future knitters & crocheters from our artsy and crafty virtual world will thank you for your good deed, including myself.

One of Top 25 Bloggers in 2017 by AllFreeKnitting

Screenshot of an email from All Free Knitting
I cannot describe how wonderful I feel after receiving an email from an allfreeknitting.com - a website that connects knit & crochet designers with crafters all over the world - telling me that I was chosen to be one of twenty-five best bloggers in 2017. What an honor!
It must be my love for arts, knitting, crocheting and everything that has to do with YouTube - OMG. It is definitely a labor of love ❤️  - all this creating, learning, sharing, and teaching.
I must admit that all of you that enjoy my videos and my patterns, free or for a fee, are definitely part of my success! So THANK YOU, my virtual crafty friends from Facebook, YouTube, Twitter, Instagram etc. Without you, I would not be one of these 25 wonderful bloggers.

What a great way to start New Year 2018!

CLICK HERE FOR THE ARTICLE. And don't forget to occasionally visit All Free Knitting or All Free Crochet for many free patterns by designers such as me. 
***

DID YOU FIND ERRORS? Let me know on what page of my blog, and in which row by clicking HERE, and I will fix it as soon as I get to it. You can PM me on my FB Page HERE as well. Txs!
Also if you haven't subscribed to my HandmadeRukodelky Channel, you can do it HERE. There are many videos to be seen, too.

*******************************************************************************


Copyright page - click HERE



PLEASE, COMMENT ON YOUTUBE BELOW MY VIDEOS, AND/OR SHARE YOUR IMAGES OF YOUR RECREATED WORKS ON MY FB PAGE HERE :-)





Note: Most of the time I work as fast as I can to keep up with knitting and crocheting requests. I have to videotape, edit videos, then convert them & upload them to my channel. After that often I post on my blog patterns. I answer many questions, which means that often I work up to 16 hours a day. I would tremendously appreciate IF anyone of you who finds an error in the written pattern, so please, let me know - where (what rows) and what may be the problem. Many future knitters & crocheters from our artsy and crafty virtual world will thank you for your good deed, including myself.

One Skein Thick Socks With Short Row Heels

I had a leftover yarn in my stash from a couple of years ago when I knitted few hats and scarves from super bulky yarn. So this year I decided to make few thick socks.

If you know how to knit in the round then these socks will be easy knit, because they are knitted in a very simple no-frills way. The color variation in the skein makes them look more "advanced" than they actually are. They are knitted with a "short rows technique", and they knit FAST. I had them done in about 4 hours, but for slower knitters, they can be done in a day (if you do not get distracted.)

I used super bulky yarn in acrylic/wool blend, and one size smaller knitting needles to make these socks slightly denser, thus warmer.
The socks are perfect for anyone that has a US shoe size 7.5 to 8, but if you are skilled, you can make them a little bigger or smaller with adjustments of plus-minus 2 to 6 stitches, and plus-minus several rows. For example, I will be knitting these socks for a man whose feet are narrow - so I will keep the number of 24 stitches, but I will knit several more rows between the heel and the toes - instead of 22 rows I will knit 30 rows.
In order to make them wider, you need to adjust your short rows and decreases. For each 2 extra stitches, you would make an extra short row (= on both sides of your knitting needle) while forming your heel, and 4 extra decreases in each row for your toes.
If you will make cuffs longer, or socks longer/bigger than this pattern, you will need more than 1 skein of yarn.

They are perfect for keeping toes warm while sitting by the fireplace, lounging around with friends, reading a book, knitting, crocheting or just relaxing when it is cold outside.

You can watch my video how I knit these socks, too:
Video for RIGHT-HANDED KNITTERS
Video for LEFT-HANDED KNITTERS

If you watch my video, share your experience by writing a comment on my Facebook, or YouTube. Enjoy and keep your toes cozy inside these handmade thick socks. I'm already enjoying two pairs of socks similar to these.

Material:
  • Yarn - 1 ball of Super Bulky #6; I used Lion Brand, Wool-Ease, Thick & Quick; 80% acrylic/20% wool; 106 yrd/97 m; 6 oz/170 g; color "Sequoia" - one ball for a US shoe size 7 or 8, a little more for a US shoe size 8+
  • Long Knitting Needles - size #11 (8 mm)
  • Double pointed needles (or circular needles) - size #11 (8 mm)
  • Scissors
  • Hook or Yarn needle for weaving in the ends

Gouge (stockinette stitch):
on knitting needles #11 (8 mm) - 2"x2" = 5 sts x 8 rows

Size:
US shoe size 7.5 to 8

    Abbreviation:

    CO - cast on
    K - knit
    P - purl
    K2tog - knit two stitches together

    SSK - slip slip and then knit them together through the back loop

    RS - right side

    WS - wrong side
    
st(s) - stitch(es)

    Step-by-Step Directions:

    Make 2.

    Foundation:
    cast on 24 stitches on long knitting needle (or circular needles)

    The Cuff

    Row 1               K24 - then move your stitches onto 3 double pointed knitting needles and distribute the stitches evenly

    Row 2               without twisting your knit connect them into a circle; K24
    Row 3               K24
    Row 4-13         *[K1, P1]* - 12x
    Row 14-15        K24

    Forming The Heel

    Before you start knitting your heel distribute stitches as such:

    • on the needle #1(your next needle you will be knitting on) place 12 stitches
    • on the needle #2 place 6 sts
    • on the needle #3 place 6 sts. 
    To form your heel you will work with 12 stitches on your needle #1 and you will use also a knitting needle #4, therefore you will work with two knitting needles, leaving needles #2 and #3 alone.
    If you are knitting on circular needles - place a marker between 12th and 13th sts - work with first 12 stitches only, ignor the rest of your stitches.

    Row 16           (RS) K11;  leave 12th stitch on your left needle and  turn your work to knit on wrong side

    Row 17           (WS - now you have 1 st on the right needle and 11 sts on the left needle) With yarn in front slip 1 st purlwise from left needle onto right needle, then P9 (to 1 st before the end); turn your work to knit on the right side
    Row 18           (RS - now you have 1 st on the right needle and 11 sts on the left needle) With yarn in back sl 1 st purlwise from left needle onto right needle, then K8 (to 2 sts before the end); turn your work to knit on the wrong side
    Row 19           (WS - now you have 2 sts on the right needle and 10 sts on the left needle) With yarn in front sl 1 st purlwise from left needle onto right needle, then P7 (to 2 sts before the end); turn your work to knit on the right side
    Row 20           (RS - now you have 2 st on the right needle and 10 sts on the left needle) With yarn in back sl 1 st purlwise from left needle onto right needle, then K6 (to 3 sts before the end); turn your work to knit on the wrong side
    Row 21           (WS - now you have 3 sts on the right needle and 9 sts on the left needle) With yarn in front sl 1 st purlwise from left needle onto right needle, then P5 (to 3 sts before the end); turn your work to knit on the right side
    Row 22           (RS - now you have 3 st on the right needle and 9 sts on the left needle) With yarn in back sl 1 st purlwise from left needle onto right needle, then K4 (to 4 sts before the end); turn your work to knit on the wrong side
    Row 23           (WS - now you have 4 sts on the right needle and 8 sts on the left needle) With yarn in front sl 1 st purlwise from left needle onto right needle, then P3 (to 4 sts before the end); turn your work to knit on the right side

    Now we will start adding stitches on both,  the right and wrong, sides back again

    Row 24          (RS - now you have 4 st on the right needle and 8 sts on the left needle) With yarn in back sl 1 st purlwise from left needle onto right needle, then K3 (to 4 sts before the end); note: add a stitch - pick a stitch between your 8th stitch (= last stitch on your right needle) and 9th st (= first stitch on your left needle) from front to back and put it on your left needle, then knit this extra stitch with your 9th st together; turn your work to knit on the wrong side
    Row 25          (WS - now you have 3 sts on the right needle and 9 sts on the left needle) With yarn in front sl 1 st purlwise from left needle onto right needle, then P4 (to 4 sts before the end); note: add a stitch - pick a stitch between your 8th stitch (= last stitch on your right needle) and 9th st (= first stitch on your left needle) from front to back and put it on your left needle, then purl this extra stitch with your 9th st together; turn your work to knit on the right side
    Row 26           (RS - now you have 3 st on the right needle and 9 sts on the left needle) With yarn in back sl 1 st purlwise from left needle onto right needle, then K5 (to 3 sts before the end); note: add a stitch - pick a stitch between your 9th stitch (= last stitch on your right needle) and 10th st (= first stitch on your left needle) from front to back and put it on your left needle, then knit this extra stitch with your 10th st together; turn your work to knit on the wrong side
    Row 27           (WS - now you have 2 sts on the right needle and 10 sts on the left needle) With yarn in front sl 1 st purlwise from left needle onto right needle, then P6 (to 3 sts before the end); note: add a stitch - pick a stitch between your 9th stitch (= last stitch on your right needle) and 10th st (= first stitch on your left needle) from front to back and put it on your left needle, then purl this extra stitch with your 10th st together; turn your work to knit on the right side
    Row 28          (RS - now you have 2 st on the right needle and 10 sts on the left needle) With yarn in back sl 1 st purlwise from left needle onto right needle, then K7 (to 2 sts before the end); note: add a stitch - pick a stitch between your 10th stitch (= last stitch on your right needle) and 11st st (= first stitch on your left needle) from front to back and put it on your left needle, then knit this extra stitch with your 11st st together; turn your work to knit on the wrong side
    Row 29           (WS - now you have 1 sts on the right needle and 11 sts on the left needle) With yarn in front sl st purlwise from left needle onto right needle, then P8 (to 2 sts before the end); note: add a stitch - pick a stitch between your 10th stitch (= last stitch on your right needle) and 11st st (= first stitch on your left needle) from front to back and put it on your left needle, then purl this extra stitch with your 11st st together; turn your work to knit on the right side
    Row 30          (RS - now you have 1 st on the right needle and 11 sts on the left needle) With yarn in back sl st purlwise from left needle onto right needle, then K9 (to 1 sts before the end); note: add a stitch - pick a stitch between your 11st stitch (= last stitch on your right needle) and 12th st (= first stitch on your left needle) from front to back and put it on your left needle, then knit this extra stitch with your 12th st together; turn your work to knit on the wrong side
    Row 31          (WS - now you have all sts on one needle only) With yarn in front sl 1 st purlwise from left needle onto right needle, then P10 (to 1 sts before the end); note: add a stitch - pick a stitch between your 11st stitch (= last stitch on your right needle) and 12th st (= first stitch on your left needle) from front to back and put it on your left needle, then purl this extra stitch with your 12th st together; turn your work to knit on the right side

    The Foot Area

    From now on you will work on the right side in the round again

    Row 32            sl st first st purlwise from left needle onto right needle, K11; now close a hole between the stitches/needles by picking a stitch between your 12th and 13th stitches and knit the "added stitch" with 13th st together; K11

    Row 33           now close a hole between the stitches/needles by picking a stitch between your last knitted and your 1st stitches and knit the "added stitch" with 1st st together, K23

    Row 34-55    K24

    Toe Area

    Row 56       *[K2tog, K8, SSK]* - 2x
    Row 57       K20
    Row 58       *[K2tog, K6, SSK]* - 2x
    Row 59       K16
    Row 60       *[K2tog, K4, SSK]* - 2x
    Row 61       (optional) - K12

    Finishing:
    Move stitches from a needle #2 onto a needle #3. Use Kitchener stitch to seam two sets of live stitches (6 sts & 6 sts) invisibly. See my sock video how to do the Kitchener stitch.

    ***

    DID YOU FIND ERRORS? Let me know on what page of my blog, and in which row by clicking HERE, and I will fix it as soon as I get to it. You can PM me on my FB Page HERE as well. Txs!
    Also if you haven't subscribed to my HandmadeRukodelky Channel, you can do it HERE. There are many videos to be seen, too.

    *******************************************************************************


    Copyright page - click HERE



    PLEASE, COMMENT ON YOUTUBE BELOW MY VIDEOS, AND/OR SHARE YOUR IMAGES OF YOUR RECREATED WORKS ON MY FB PAGE HERE :-)




    Note: Most of the time I work as fast as I can to keep up with knitting and crocheting requests. I have to videotape, edit videos, then convert them & upload them to my channel. After that often I post on my blog patterns. I answer many questions, which means that often I work up to 16 hours a day. I would tremendously appreciate IF anyone of you who finds an error in the written pattern, to please, let me know - where (what rows) and what may be the problem. Many future knitters & crocheters from our artsy and crafty virtual world will thank you for your good deed, including myself.

    Wrist Warmers e-Book

    When I go shopping for a sweater, or for a blouse with long sleeves, the sleeves are usually shorter than I would like them. I guess my arms are slightly longer than other people's arms. Then there is a shrinkage. Sometimes my tops' sleeves get shorter after washing. So, I usually end up with sleeves right above my wrist bone. I think the bone's name is Ulna. So, my Ulna area gets cold and uncomfortable. That is why I like to make different types of wrist warmers for myself. Even just a very simple one - cuffs straight up, with slightly flared up hand area that covers Carpals and part of the Metacarpals (click for images HERE, if you want to know what I am talking about). And did you know that if you use a computer and keep your Carpals warm, you may have fewer problems with your Carpal Tunnel Syndrome (CTS)? Click HERE to read about prevention of your CTS. Yeah. I like that.
    Therefore, to keep your wrists warm, ladies and gentlemen, you need to make yourselves some wrist warmers, especially for cold days and evenings, or if you work on the computer a lot.

    I made a couple of videos. If you are a right-handed knitter, click HERE for "Fast Variegated Simple Knitted Wrist Warmers," and click HERE for "Two Tone Wrist Warmers".

    If you are a left-handed knitter, click HERE for "Fast Variegated Simple Knitted Wrist Warmers," and click HERE for Two Tone Wrist Warmers.

    If you prefer written pattern, please consider PURCHASING a WRITTEN .PDF (15 page e-Book) with 4 patterns (various adult sizes) for a very small fee of just $0.99 - your purchase will fund my blog and YouTube Channel.

    To make a Paypal purchase, please, click on the image below.



    (Please note, that prices of my patterns will go up after holidays).

    I appreciate not only your financial support of my designs, writings and videos, but also spreading the word among your crafty friends.


    ***

    DID YOU FIND ERRORS? Let me know on what page of my blog, and in which row by clicking HERE, and I will fix it as soon as I get to it. You can PM me on my FB Page HERE as well. Txs!
    Also if you haven't subscribed to my HandmadeRukodelky Channel, you can do it HERE. There are many videos to be seen, too.

    *******************************************************************************


    Copyright page - click HERE



    PLEASE, COMMENT ON YOUTUBE BELOW MY VIDEOS, AND/OR SHARE YOUR IMAGES OF YOUR RECREATED WORKS ON MY FB PAGE HERE :-)




    Note: Most of the time I work as fast as I can to keep up with knitting and crocheting requests. I have to videotape, edit videos, then convert them & upload them to my channel. After that often I post on my blog patterns. I answer many questions, which means that often I work up to 16 hours a day. I would tremendously appreciate IF anyone of you who finds an error in the written pattern, to please, let me know - where (what rows) and what may be the problem. Many future knitters & crocheters from our artsy and crafty virtual world will thank you for your good deed, including myself.

    Speed Up Your English Method of Knitting

    Screenshot of Lorna Jenkin's video
    On September 2017, I shared a video of Hazel Tindall on my Facebook Page where she is knitting with English method so fast that I was totally blown away by it - as everyone else was (according to likes and comments).

    Well, today, I (a total clutz in English method) came across Lorna Jenkin's video how to speed up the English method of knitting. She dissects this "fast English knitting" and explains it in several steps. I promise you will learn a lot from her just as I did, (not sure if I have time to practice with all my projects and a Continental style knitting being my preferred method, but her teaching makes great sense). So head over to HER VIDEO BY CLICKING ON THIS LINK.

    And if you feel like watching my video (perhaps again) that I recorded quite some time ago (in 2013 actually), which is about "How To Hold Knitting Needles For Continental Style", then CLICK HERE.

    Screenshot of my Continental knitting video

    I hope these two videos will enlighten you. Happy Knitting.


    ***

    DID YOU FIND ERRORS? Let me know on what page of my blog, and in which row by clicking HERE, and I will fix it as soon as I get to it. You can PM me on my FB Page HERE as well. Txs!
    Also if you haven't subscribed to my HandmadeRukodelky Channel, you can do it HERE. There are many videos to be seen, too.

    *******************************************************************************


    Copyright page - click HERE



    PLEASE, COMMENT ON YOUTUBE BELOW MY VIDEOS, AND/OR SHARE YOUR IMAGES OF YOUR RECREATED WORKS ON MY FB PAGE HERE :-)




    Note: Most of the time I work as fast as I can to keep up with knitting and crocheting requests. I have to videotape, edit videos, then convert them & upload them to my channel. After that often I post on my blog patterns. I answer many questions, which means that often I work up to 16 hours a day. I would tremendously appreciate IF anyone of you who finds an error in the written pattern, to please, let me know - where (what rows) and what may be the problem. Many future knitters & crocheters from our artsy and crafty virtual world will thank you for your good deed, including myself.

    Easy Crochet Snowflake No 6

    I love to crochet snowflakes - make them as I go. And it is that time of the year again - making winter decorations. Over the years I made many different "freehand" snowflakes. What I mean by that is that I didn't follow any patterns and I didn't write a pattern either. Today I present you a free pattern of a crocheted snowflake and a videotape of my outcome. I love to decorate my house with snowflakes in the winter time.
    you can crochet snowflakes from a thin cotton yarn/thread or thick one. Your choice. I do prefer the thin cotton thread - they are much daintier.

    If you would like to subscribe to my YouTube Channel then click HERE.

    Huge "thank yous" to all my wonderful followers for sharing my projects.
    Enjoy, and have fun knitting or crocheting :-)

    Materials (if you shop via affiliated links below you could help fund my future projects TXS):
    Michaels online store, OR Hobby Lobby, OR Jo-Ann Fabrics, OR Walmart 

    Size:
    Varies according to a yarn/thread weight (thickness)

    Abbreviations:
    ch - chain
    sc - single crochet
    dc - double crochet
    join - connect into a circle
    sl st - slip stitch

    Materials:
    Thicker Yarn - Paton's Grace Cotton Yarn (few feet)
    Hook - Stainless Size C (2.75mm)
    OR
    Thinner Yarn/Thread - Aunt Lydia's  Crochet Thread No. 10
    Hook - Stainless Steel Size 7 (1.65mm)
    AND
    Scissors
    Cooked Thick Starch (video)
    Stainless Steel Pins
    Pads/Plastic For Blocking


    Step-by-Step:

    Foundation: ch7 and connect into a circle with sl. st.
    Note: I make my connecting slip stitches tight so I do not count them as an extra stitch.

    Rnd 1               ch1, 12 sc, sl st into ch1 to connect into circle (Note: if you crochet over the tail, you won't have to weave it in later)
    Rnd 2               ch3, 1 dc into 1st st, ch2; *[skip 1 st, 2 dc into next st, ch2]* - 5x; sl st into third ch of initial ch3 to connect into circle
    Rnd 3               *{ch10, sl st into 4th ch st from hook, *[ch4, sl st into same st]* - 2x; ch6, sl st into second dc from prev row; 2 sc into ch2-sp from prev row, ch4, sl st into last crocheted sc, 2 sc  into ch2-sp from prev row, sl st into next dc from prev row}* - repeat all in { } brackets 5 more times (total 6x)

    Finishing - weave in your tail(s), starch it, stretch it into the snowflake shape on a non-sticky surface, let it dry, decorate or give it as a gift.


    ***

    DID YOU FIND ERRORS? Let me know on what page of my blog, and in which row by clicking HERE, and I will fix it as soon as I get to it. You can PM me on my FB Page HERE as well. Txs!
    Also if you haven't subscribed to my HandmadeRukodelky Channel, you can do it HERE. There are many videos to be seen, too.

    *******************************************************************************


    Copyright page - click HERE



    PLEASE, COMMENT ON YOUTUBE BELOW MY VIDEOS, AND/OR SHARE YOUR IMAGES OF YOUR RECREATED WORKS ON MY FB PAGE HERE :-)




    Note: Most of the time I work as fast as I can to keep up with knitting and crocheting requests. I have to videotape, edit videos, then convert them & upload them to my channel. After that often I post on my blog patterns. I answer many questions, which means that often I work up to 16 hours a day. I would tremendously appreciate IF anyone of you who finds an error in the written pattern, to please, let me know - where (what rows) and what may be the problem. Many future knitters & crocheters from our artsy and crafty virtual world will thank you for your good deed, including myself.