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One Skein Thick Socks With Short Row Heels

I had a leftover yarn in my stash from a couple of years ago when I knitted few hats and scarves from super bulky yarn. So this year I decided to make few thick socks.

If you know how to knit in the round then these socks will be easy knit, because they are knitted in a very simple no-frills way. The color variation in the skein makes them look more "advanced" than they actually are. They are knitted with a "short rows technique", and they knit FAST. I had them done in about 4 hours, but for slower knitters, they can be done in a day (if you do not get distracted.)

I used super bulky yarn in acrylic/wool blend, and one size smaller knitting needles to make these socks slightly denser, thus warmer.
The socks are perfect for anyone that has a US shoe size 7.5 to 8, but if you are skilled, you can make them a little bigger or smaller with adjustments of plus-minus 2 to 6 stitches, and plus-minus several rows. For example, I will be knitting these socks for a man whose feet are narrow - so I will keep the number of 24 stitches, but I will knit several more rows between the heel and the toes - instead of 22 rows I will knit 30 rows.
In order to make them wider, you need to adjust your short rows and decreases. For each 2 extra stitches, you would make an extra short row (= on both sides of your knitting needle) while forming your heel, and 4 extra decreases in each row for your toes.
If you will make cuffs longer, or socks longer/bigger than this pattern, you will need more than 1 skein of yarn.

They are perfect for keeping toes warm while sitting by the fireplace, lounging around with friends, reading a book, knitting, crocheting or just relaxing when it is cold outside.

You can watch my video how I knit these socks, too:
Video for RIGHT-HANDED KNITTERS
Video for LEFT-HANDED KNITTERS

If you watch my video, share your experience by writing a comment on my Facebook, or YouTube. Enjoy and keep your toes cozy inside these handmade thick socks. I'm already enjoying two pairs of socks similar to these.

Material:
  • Yarn - 1 ball of Super Bulky #6; I used Lion Brand, Wool-Ease, Thick & Quick; 80% acrylic/20% wool; 106 yrd/97 m; 6 oz/170 g; color "Sequoia" - one ball for a US shoe size 7 or 8, a little more for a US shoe size 8+
  • Long Knitting Needles - size #11 (8 mm)
  • Double pointed needles (or circular needles) - size #11 (8 mm)
  • Scissors
  • Hook or Yarn needle for weaving in the ends

Gouge (stockinette stitch):
on knitting needles #11 (8 mm) - 2"x2" = 5 sts x 8 rows

Size:
US shoe size 7.5 to 8

    Abbreviation:

    CO - cast on
    K - knit
    P - purl
    K2tog - knit two stitches together

    SSK - slip slip and then knit them together through the back loop

    RS - right side

    WS - wrong side
    
st(s) - stitch(es)

    Step-by-Step Directions:

    Make 2.

    Foundation:
    cast on 24 stitches on long knitting needle (or circular needles)

    The Cuff

    Row 1               K24 - then move your stitches onto 3 double pointed knitting needles and distribute the stitches evenly

    Row 2               without twisting your knit connect them into a circle; K24
    Row 3               K24
    Row 4-13         *[K1, P1]* - 12x
    Row 14-15        K24

    Forming The Heel

    Before you start knitting your heel distribute stitches as such:

    • on the needle #1(your next needle you will be knitting on) place 12 stitches
    • on the needle #2 place 6 sts
    • on the needle #3 place 6 sts. 
    To form your heel you will work with 12 stitches on your needle #1 and you will use also a knitting needle #4, therefore you will work with two knitting needles, leaving needles #2 and #3 alone.
    If you are knitting on circular needles - place a marker between 12th and 13th sts - work with first 12 stitches only, ignor the rest of your stitches.

    Row 16           (RS) K11;  leave 12th stitch on your left needle and  turn your work to knit on wrong side

    Row 17           (WS - now you have 1 st on the right needle and 11 sts on the left needle) With yarn in front slip 1 st purlwise from left needle onto right needle, then P9 (to 1 st before the end); turn your work to knit on the right side
    Row 18           (RS - now you have 1 st on the right needle and 11 sts on the left needle) With yarn in back sl 1 st purlwise from left needle onto right needle, then K8 (to 2 sts before the end); turn your work to knit on the wrong side
    Row 19           (WS - now you have 2 sts on the right needle and 10 sts on the left needle) With yarn in front sl 1 st purlwise from left needle onto right needle, then P7 (to 2 sts before the end); turn your work to knit on the right side
    Row 20           (RS - now you have 2 st on the right needle and 10 sts on the left needle) With yarn in back sl 1 st purlwise from left needle onto right needle, then K6 (to 3 sts before the end); turn your work to knit on the wrong side
    Row 21           (WS - now you have 3 sts on the right needle and 9 sts on the left needle) With yarn in front sl 1 st purlwise from left needle onto right needle, then P5 (to 3 sts before the end); turn your work to knit on the right side
    Row 22           (RS - now you have 3 st on the right needle and 9 sts on the left needle) With yarn in back sl 1 st purlwise from left needle onto right needle, then K4 (to 4 sts before the end); turn your work to knit on the wrong side
    Row 23           (WS - now you have 4 sts on the right needle and 8 sts on the left needle) With yarn in front sl 1 st purlwise from left needle onto right needle, then P3 (to 4 sts before the end); turn your work to knit on the right side

    Now we will start adding stitches on both,  the right and wrong, sides back again

    Row 24          (RS - now you have 4 st on the right needle and 8 sts on the left needle) With yarn in back sl 1 st purlwise from left needle onto right needle, then K3 (to 4 sts before the end); note: add a stitch - pick a stitch between your 8th stitch (= last stitch on your right needle) and 9th st (= first stitch on your left needle) from front to back and put it on your left needle, then knit this extra stitch with your 9th st together; turn your work to knit on the wrong side
    Row 25          (WS - now you have 3 sts on the right needle and 9 sts on the left needle) With yarn in front sl 1 st purlwise from left needle onto right needle, then P4 (to 4 sts before the end); note: add a stitch - pick a stitch between your 8th stitch (= last stitch on your right needle) and 9th st (= first stitch on your left needle) from front to back and put it on your left needle, then purl this extra stitch with your 9th st together; turn your work to knit on the right side
    Row 26           (RS - now you have 3 st on the right needle and 9 sts on the left needle) With yarn in back sl 1 st purlwise from left needle onto right needle, then K5 (to 3 sts before the end); note: add a stitch - pick a stitch between your 9th stitch (= last stitch on your right needle) and 10th st (= first stitch on your left needle) from front to back and put it on your left needle, then knit this extra stitch with your 10th st together; turn your work to knit on the wrong side
    Row 27           (WS - now you have 2 sts on the right needle and 10 sts on the left needle) With yarn in front sl 1 st purlwise from left needle onto right needle, then P6 (to 3 sts before the end); note: add a stitch - pick a stitch between your 9th stitch (= last stitch on your right needle) and 10th st (= first stitch on your left needle) from front to back and put it on your left needle, then purl this extra stitch with your 10th st together; turn your work to knit on the right side
    Row 28          (RS - now you have 2 st on the right needle and 10 sts on the left needle) With yarn in back sl 1 st purlwise from left needle onto right needle, then K7 (to 2 sts before the end); note: add a stitch - pick a stitch between your 10th stitch (= last stitch on your right needle) and 11st st (= first stitch on your left needle) from front to back and put it on your left needle, then knit this extra stitch with your 11st st together; turn your work to knit on the wrong side
    Row 29           (WS - now you have 1 sts on the right needle and 11 sts on the left needle) With yarn in front sl st purlwise from left needle onto right needle, then P8 (to 2 sts before the end); note: add a stitch - pick a stitch between your 10th stitch (= last stitch on your right needle) and 11st st (= first stitch on your left needle) from front to back and put it on your left needle, then purl this extra stitch with your 11st st together; turn your work to knit on the right side
    Row 30          (RS - now you have 1 st on the right needle and 11 sts on the left needle) With yarn in back sl st purlwise from left needle onto right needle, then K9 (to 1 sts before the end); note: add a stitch - pick a stitch between your 11st stitch (= last stitch on your right needle) and 12th st (= first stitch on your left needle) from front to back and put it on your left needle, then knit this extra stitch with your 12th st together; turn your work to knit on the wrong side
    Row 31          (WS - now you have all sts on one needle only) With yarn in front sl 1 st purlwise from left needle onto right needle, then P10 (to 1 sts before the end); note: add a stitch - pick a stitch between your 11st stitch (= last stitch on your right needle) and 12th st (= first stitch on your left needle) from front to back and put it on your left needle, then purl this extra stitch with your 12th st together; turn your work to knit on the right side

    The Foot Area

    From now on you will work on the right side in the round again

    Row 32            sl st first st purlwise from left needle onto right needle, K11; now close a hole between the stitches/needles by picking a stitch between your 12th and 13th stitches and knit the "added stitch" with 13th st together; K11

    Row 33           now close a hole between the stitches/needles by picking a stitch between your last knitted and your 1st stitches and knit the "added stitch" with 1st st together, K23

    Row 34-55    K24

    Toe Area

    Row 56       *[K2tog, K8, SSK]* - 2x
    Row 57       K20
    Row 58       *[K2tog, K6, SSK]* - 2x
    Row 59       K16
    Row 60       *[K2tog, K4, SSK]* - 2x
    Row 61       (optional) - K12

    Finishing:
    Move stitches from a needle #2 onto a needle #3. Use Kitchener stitch to seam two sets of live stitches (6 sts & 6 sts) invisibly. See my sock video how to do the Kitchener stitch.

    ***

    DID YOU FIND ERRORS? Let me know on what page of my blog, and in which row by clicking HERE, and I will fix it as soon as I get to it. You can PM me on my FB Page HERE as well. Txs!
    Also if you haven't subscribed to my HandmadeRukodelky Channel, you can do it HERE. There are many videos to be seen, too.

    *******************************************************************************


    Copyright page - click HERE



    PLEASE, COMMENT ON YOUTUBE BELOW MY VIDEOS, AND/OR SHARE YOUR IMAGES OF YOUR RECREATED WORKS ON MY FB PAGE HERE :-)




    Note: Most of the time I work as fast as I can to keep up with knitting and crocheting requests. I have to videotape, edit videos, then convert them & upload them to my channel. After that often I post on my blog patterns. I answer many questions, which means that often I work up to 16 hours a day. I would tremendously appreciate IF anyone of you who finds an error in the written pattern, to please, let me know - where (what rows) and what may be the problem. Many future knitters & crocheters from our artsy and crafty virtual world will thank you for your good deed, including myself.

    Wrist Warmers e-Book

    When I go shopping for a sweater, or for a blouse with long sleeves, the sleeves are usually shorter than I would like them. I guess my arms are slightly longer than other people's arms. Then there is a shrinkage. Sometimes my tops' sleeves get shorter after washing. So, I usually end up with sleeves right above my wrist bone. I think the bone's name is Ulna. So, my Ulna area gets cold and uncomfortable. That is why I like to make different types of wrist warmers for myself. Even just a very simple one - cuffs straight up, with slightly flared up hand area that covers Carpals and part of the Metacarpals (click for images HERE, if you want to know what I am talking about). And did you know that if you use a computer and keep your Carpals warm, you may have fewer problems with your Carpal Tunnel Syndrome (CTS)? Click HERE to read about prevention of your CTS. Yeah. I like that.
    Therefore, to keep your wrists warm, ladies and gentlemen, you need to make yourselves some wrist warmers, especially for cold days and evenings, or if you work on the computer a lot.

    I made a couple of videos. If you are a right-handed knitter, click HERE for "Fast Variegated Simple Knitted Wrist Warmers," and click HERE for "Two Tone Wrist Warmers".

    If you are a left-handed knitter, click HERE for "Fast Variegated Simple Knitted Wrist Warmers," and click HERE for Two Tone Wrist Warmers.

    If you prefer written pattern, please consider PURCHASING a WRITTEN .PDF (15 page e-Book) with 4 patterns (various adult sizes) for a very small fee of just $0.99 - your purchase will fund my blog and YouTube Channel.

    To make a Paypal purchase, please, click on the image below.



    (Please note, that prices of my patterns will go up after holidays).

    I appreciate not only your financial support of my designs, writings and videos, but also spreading the word among your crafty friends.


    ***

    DID YOU FIND ERRORS? Let me know on what page of my blog, and in which row by clicking HERE, and I will fix it as soon as I get to it. You can PM me on my FB Page HERE as well. Txs!
    Also if you haven't subscribed to my HandmadeRukodelky Channel, you can do it HERE. There are many videos to be seen, too.

    *******************************************************************************


    Copyright page - click HERE



    PLEASE, COMMENT ON YOUTUBE BELOW MY VIDEOS, AND/OR SHARE YOUR IMAGES OF YOUR RECREATED WORKS ON MY FB PAGE HERE :-)




    Note: Most of the time I work as fast as I can to keep up with knitting and crocheting requests. I have to videotape, edit videos, then convert them & upload them to my channel. After that often I post on my blog patterns. I answer many questions, which means that often I work up to 16 hours a day. I would tremendously appreciate IF anyone of you who finds an error in the written pattern, to please, let me know - where (what rows) and what may be the problem. Many future knitters & crocheters from our artsy and crafty virtual world will thank you for your good deed, including myself.

    Speed Up Your English Method of Knitting

    Screenshot of Lorna Jenkin's video
    On September 2017, I shared a video of Hazel Tindall on my Facebook Page where she is knitting with English method so fast that I was totally blown away by it - as everyone else was (according to likes and comments).

    Well, today, I (a total clutz in English method) came across Lorna Jenkin's video how to speed up the English method of knitting. She dissects this "fast English knitting" and explains it in several steps. I promise you will learn a lot from her just as I did, (not sure if I have time to practice with all my projects and a Continental style knitting being my preferred method, but her teaching makes great sense). So head over to HER VIDEO BY CLICKING ON THIS LINK.

    And if you feel like watching my video (perhaps again) that I recorded quite some time ago (in 2013 actually), which is about "How To Hold Knitting Needles For Continental Style", then CLICK HERE.

    Screenshot of my Continental knitting video

    I hope these two videos will enlighten you. Happy Knitting.


    ***

    DID YOU FIND ERRORS? Let me know on what page of my blog, and in which row by clicking HERE, and I will fix it as soon as I get to it. You can PM me on my FB Page HERE as well. Txs!
    Also if you haven't subscribed to my HandmadeRukodelky Channel, you can do it HERE. There are many videos to be seen, too.

    *******************************************************************************


    Copyright page - click HERE



    PLEASE, COMMENT ON YOUTUBE BELOW MY VIDEOS, AND/OR SHARE YOUR IMAGES OF YOUR RECREATED WORKS ON MY FB PAGE HERE :-)




    Note: Most of the time I work as fast as I can to keep up with knitting and crocheting requests. I have to videotape, edit videos, then convert them & upload them to my channel. After that often I post on my blog patterns. I answer many questions, which means that often I work up to 16 hours a day. I would tremendously appreciate IF anyone of you who finds an error in the written pattern, to please, let me know - where (what rows) and what may be the problem. Many future knitters & crocheters from our artsy and crafty virtual world will thank you for your good deed, including myself.

    Easy Crochet Snowflake No 6

    I love to crochet snowflakes - make them as I go. And it is that time of the year again - making winter decorations. Over the years I made many different "freehand" snowflakes. What I mean by that is that I didn't follow any patterns and I didn't write a pattern either. Today I present you a free pattern of a crocheted snowflake and a videotape of my outcome. I love to decorate my house with snowflakes in the winter time.
    you can crochet snowflakes from a thin cotton yarn/thread or thick one. Your choice. I do prefer the thin cotton thread - they are much daintier.

    If you would like to subscribe to my YouTube Channel then click HERE.

    Huge "thank yous" to all my wonderful followers for sharing my projects.
    Enjoy, and have fun knitting or crocheting :-)

    Materials (if you shop via affiliated links below you could help fund my future projects TXS):
    Michaels online store, OR Hobby Lobby, OR Jo-Ann Fabrics, OR Walmart 

    Size:
    Varies according to a yarn/thread weight (thickness)

    Abbreviations:
    ch - chain
    sc - single crochet
    dc - double crochet
    join - connect into a circle
    sl st - slip stitch

    Materials:
    Thicker Yarn - Paton's Grace Cotton Yarn (few feet)
    Hook - Stainless Size C (2.75mm)
    OR
    Thinner Yarn/Thread - Aunt Lydia's  Crochet Thread No. 10
    Hook - Stainless Steel Size 7 (1.65mm)
    AND
    Scissors
    Cooked Thick Starch (video)
    Stainless Steel Pins
    Pads/Plastic For Blocking


    Step-by-Step:

    Foundation: ch7 and connect into a circle with sl. st.
    Note: I make my connecting slip stitches tight so I do not count them as an extra stitch.

    Rnd 1               ch1, 12 sc, sl st into ch1 to connect into circle (Note: if you crochet over the tail, you won't have to weave it in later)
    Rnd 2               ch3, 1 dc into 1st st, ch2; *[skip 1 st, 2 dc into next st, ch2]* - 5x; sl st into third ch of initial ch3 to connect into circle
    Rnd 3               *{ch10, sl st into 4th ch st from hook, *[ch4, sl st into same st]* - 2x; ch6, sl st into second dc from prev row; 2 sc into ch2-sp from prev row, ch4, sl st into last crocheted sc, 2 sc  into ch2-sp from prev row, sl st into next dc from prev row}* - repeat all in { } brackets 5 more times (total 6x)

    Finishing - weave in your tail(s), starch it, stretch it into the snowflake shape on a non-sticky surface, let it dry, decorate or give it as a gift.


    ***

    DID YOU FIND ERRORS? Let me know on what page of my blog, and in which row by clicking HERE, and I will fix it as soon as I get to it. You can PM me on my FB Page HERE as well. Txs!
    Also if you haven't subscribed to my HandmadeRukodelky Channel, you can do it HERE. There are many videos to be seen, too.

    *******************************************************************************


    Copyright page - click HERE



    PLEASE, COMMENT ON YOUTUBE BELOW MY VIDEOS, AND/OR SHARE YOUR IMAGES OF YOUR RECREATED WORKS ON MY FB PAGE HERE :-)




    Note: Most of the time I work as fast as I can to keep up with knitting and crocheting requests. I have to videotape, edit videos, then convert them & upload them to my channel. After that often I post on my blog patterns. I answer many questions, which means that often I work up to 16 hours a day. I would tremendously appreciate IF anyone of you who finds an error in the written pattern, to please, let me know - where (what rows) and what may be the problem. Many future knitters & crocheters from our artsy and crafty virtual world will thank you for your good deed, including myself.

    Crocheted Soles For Slippers or Boots - 7.75 inch

    Another request to make soles. Here is another addition - 7 and 3/4 inches long foot sole, which is about 19.7 cm. Make 4 of them and stack two and two for a thicker bottom of the slipper/bootie.
    Enjoy.

    If you would like to subscribe to my YouTube Channel then click HERE.

    Huge "thank yous" to all my wonderful followers for sharing my projects.
    Enjoy, and have fun knitting or crocheting :-)


    Materials (if you shop via affiliated links below you could help fund my future projects TXS):
    Michaels online store, OR Hobby Lobby, OR Jo-Ann Fabrics, OR Walmart 


    See various sizes of slippers in my YouTube Playlist, including this one:

    FOR RIGHTIES HERE
    FOR LEFTIES HERE


    Afghan yarn, worsted #4 (ie. Loops & Threads "Impeccable" - I used Soft Taupe color)
    hook - US size E,  3.50 mm
    scissors
    sewing/yarn needle for weaving the ends in

    Size:
    Length of the espadrilles is 7.75" (19.68 cm)


    Step-by-Step:

    SOLES:
    make 4

    color #1 (light brown)

    Foundation: ch23

    Row 1         3 dc into 4th chain st from hook, 1 dc into next 18 ch st, 7 dc into next st; next crochet 1 dc in the next 18 sts on the opposite side of initial 23-chain st foundation, 3 dc in next st, join
    Row 2         ch 3, 1 dc in same stitch, 2 dc in each of next 3 st, 1 hdc into each of next 6 sts, 1 sc into each of next 12 sts, 2 sc into each of next 6 sts, 1 sc into each of next 12 sts, 1 hdc into each of next 6 sts, 2 dc into each of next 3 sts, join
    Row 3          ch3, 1 dc into same st, *[1 dc into next st, 2 dc into next st]* - 3x; 1 hdc into each of next 7 sts, 1 sc into each of next 14 sts,  *[2 hdc into next st, 1 hdc into next]* - 3x; 2 sc into next st, 1 sc into each of next 14 sts, 1 hdc into each of next 7 sts, *[2 dc into next st, 1 dc int next st]* - 3x; join

    Place 2 soles with wrong side toward each other and slip stitch them together with light brown yarn (insert your hook between two stitch of both soles at the same time and pull yarn through, then insert the hook between two stitches of both soles and pull yarn through soles and the stitch - repeat all around the perimeter.) Do the same with the other pair. Weave in all the ends.

    Use these crocheted soles for booties, espadrilles, slippers etc.

    See various sizes of sole videos in my YouTube Playlist:
    FOR RIGHTIES HERE
    FOR LEFTIES HERE




    ***

    DID YOU FIND ERRORS? Let me know on what page of my blog, and in which row by clicking HERE, and I will fix it as soon as I get to it. You can PM me on my FB Page HERE as well. Txs!
    Also if you haven't subscribed to my HandmadeRukodelky Channel, you can do it HERE. There are many videos to be seen, too.

    *******************************************************************************


    Copyright page - click HERE



    PLEASE, COMMENT ON YOUTUBE BELOW MY VIDEOS, AND/OR SHARE YOUR IMAGES OF YOUR RECREATED WORKS ON MY FB PAGE HERE :-)




    Note: Most of the time I work as fast as I can to keep up with knitting and crocheting requests. I have to videotape, edit videos, then convert them & upload them to my channel. After that often I post on my blog patterns. I answer many questions, which means that often I work up to 16 hours a day. I would tremendously appreciate IF anyone of you who finds an error in the written pattern, to please, let me know - where (what rows) and what may be the problem. Many future knitters & crocheters from our artsy and crafty virtual world will thank you for your good deed, including myself.

    Purple Rain Lacy Scarf

    Purple Rain Lacy Scarf  
    In August (2017) I posted a free pattern for a purple hat for Shaken Baby Syndrome (SBS). I used a purple part of Lion Brand yan for Shawls. However, I still had about 3/4 of the ball left over, and I wanted to use it up. Instead of a shawl, I decided to knit a scarf. I am a very busy person, and I was hoping to find an easy pattern that will look very rich. I looked through my books and found a chart I thought it could work. Believe it or not, this project turned out great - exactly what I wanted.
    The yarn has two different fibers - cotton and acrylic. Cotton is making this scarf strong, and acrylic is making the yarn very soft - when I touch it, it feels plush against my fingers. Of course, I made videos for right-handed knitters and for left-handed knitters, too.


    Materials (if you shop on-line via my affiliated links below, I would get few pennies, which would help to fund my future projects TXS):
    Michaels on line store, OR Hobby Lobby, OR Jo-Ann Fabrics, OR Walmart 

    Yarn: the purple part of Lion Brand; Shawl in a Ball; color: Mindful Mauve; 58% cotton/39% acrylic; 3 % other fiber; 5.3 oz/150 g; 518 yd/473 m; Note: I made 2 hats from the purple part of this yarn, which is surprisingly soft to the touch - see the link about the hats above

    Knitting Needles - size #8 (5mm)
    Hook - size #D
    Yarn Needle (for weaving in the tail)
    Scissors

    Size:
    Width of the scarf: 11"
    Length: I just used leftover (about 3/4) of the yarn ball

    Abbreviations:
    CO - cast on
    EDGE - knit 3 sts (or your desired # of stitches)
    K - knit
    P - purl
    YO - yarn over
    K2tog - knit 2 stitches together
    SSK - slip knitwise, slip knitwise, knit both slipped stitches through the back loop
    BO - bind off

    Gauge:
    My gauge corresponds with a manufacturer's gauge on any yarn label


    Step-by-Step Directions:

    CO 50 stitches (4 repeats of 11 sts + 3 sts for the first edge + 3 sts for the second edge).
    Note: you can adjust a number of your repeats and edge stitches per your desire.


    Row 1-6             K50

    Pattern:
    Note: you will repeat 10 rows of this lacy pattern until your desired length (we will start counting again from Row 1)

    Row 1                 EDGE, pm; *(K2tog - 2x; YO, K, YO, K, YO, K, YO , SSK - 2x; pm)* - repeat total 4x; EDGE
    Row 2                 EDGE; P44; EDGE
    Row 3                 EDGE, pm; *(K2tog - 2x; YO, K, YO, K, YO, K, YO , SSK - 2x; pm)* - repeat total 4x; EDGE
    Row 4                 EDGE; P44; EDGE
    Row 5                 EDGE, pm; *(K2tog - 2x; YO, K, YO, K, YO, K, YO, SSK - 2x; pm)* - repeat total 4x; EDGE
    Row 6                 EDGE; K44; EDGE
    Row 7                 EDGE; K44; EDGE
    Row 8                 EDGE; P44; EDGE
    Row 9                 EDGE; K44; EDGE
    Row 10               EDGE; P44; EDGE


    After you knit your desired number of ROW repetitions, you will finish your scarf this way:

    Row 1                 EDGE, pm; *(K2tog - 2x; YO, K, YO, K, YO, K, YO, SSK - 2x; pm)* - repeat total 4x; EDGE
    Row 2                 EDGE; P44; EDGE
    Row 3                 EDGE, pm; *(K2tog - 2x; YO, K, YO, K, YO, K, YO, SSK - 2x; pm)* - repeat total 4x; EDGE
    Row 4                 EDGE; P44; EDGE
    Row 5                 EDGE, pm; *(K2tog - 2x; YO, K, YO, K, YO, K, YO , SSK - 2x; pm)* - repeat total 4x; EDGE
    Row 6                 K50 (take your markers out as you knit)
    Row 7                 K50
    Row 8                 K50
    Row 9                 K50
    Row 10               K50
    Row 11               BO all your stitches and weave in your tails/ends


    Click on the image to enlarge this chart




    ***

    DID YOU FIND ERRORS? Let me know on what page of my blog, and in which row by clicking HERE, and I will fix it as soon as I get to it. You can PM me on my FB Page HERE as well. Txs!
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    Note: Most of the time I work as fast as I can to keep up with knitting and crocheting requests. I have to videotape, edit videos, then convert them & upload them to my channel. After that often I post on my blog patterns. I answer many questions, which means that often I work up to 16 hours a day. I would tremendously appreciate IF anyone of you who finds an error in the written pattern, to please, let me know - where (what rows) and what may be the problem. Many future knitters & crocheters from our artsy and crafty virtual world will thank you for your good deed, including myself.

    1 Pattern - 2 Knitted Triangular Scarves

    Triangular Scarf For Fall   
    There are many easy projects for knitting, and this triangular scarf is one of them. It is knitted sideways.
    First, you have "grow" stitches toward one side only, and then you have to "reduce" these stitches back to form the narrow tip at the end. Most of the triangular scarves that are knitted sideways get an increase every other row. I am tall, my arms are long, and I didn't want scarf short in length and long in width (see the image below). That is why I decided to increase every third row - to make my scarf longer in length and slightly shorter in width (or height).
    Feel free to use yarn of your choice. If you use a thicker yarn, you will knit slightly longer scarf in width (or height), but a thinner yarn will yield a scarf narrower while you will maintain the same length of your scarf. I knitted two scarves that have the same length, 36 inches, but because I knitted one scarf with worsted yarn (#4), and one with sport yarn (#3), the scarf knitted with thinner yarn is narrower. If you watch my video (links are below), you can see this difference.

    For visual knitters, here are two videos: one for right-handed knitters, and one for left-handed knitters.

    Enjoy and spread the love of knitting and crocheting.


    Materials (if you shop on-line via my affiliated links below, I would get few pennies, which would help to fund my future projects TXS):
    Michaels on line store, OR Hobby Lobby, OR Jo-Ann Fabrics, OR Walmart 

    Yarn - your choice (for Winter scarf I used THIS worsted yarn in antique white and light blue colors; and for Fall scarf I used 2 balls of Noro Taiyo Sport yarn, cotton/silk/wool blend; 100g/349yds.)
    Knitting Needles - size #8 (5mm)
    Yarn Needle (for weaving in the tail)
    Scissors

    Gauge:
    Varried

    Size:
    One size fits all, but length & width will depend on your choice of yarn, size of the needles, and rows knitted before you will start decreasing. Increases/Decreases will also determine how many stitches you will maintain on your knitting needles, thus the width/height of the finished project may vary from scarf to scarf.

    Abbreviations:
    CO - cast on
    EDGE - knit 2 sts
    K - knit
    pm - place marker
    mm - move marker from one knitting needle onto the other
    YO - yarn over
    K3tog - knit 3 stitches together
    BO - bind off

    Scarves & Graph - to enlarge click on the image


    Step-by-Step Directions:

    CO 4 stitches and knit 2 rows

    INCREASING PART:

    Row 1          EDGE, pm; YO (after the marker), K to end
    Row 2          K all sts
    Row 3          K all sts
    Row 4          K all the way to marker, YO (before the marker), mm, EDGE
    Row 5          K all sts
    Row 6          K all sts

    Repeat these 6 rows until you reach 1/2 of your scarf's desired length (about 30"-40")


    DECREASING PART:

    Row 1          EDGE, mm; YO (after the marker), K to end
    Row 2          K all way to 4 sts before the marker, K3tog, K1 (= YO from prev. row), mm, EDGE
    Row 3          K all sts
    Row 4          K all the way to marker, YO (before the marker), mm, EDGE
    Row 5          EDGE, mm, K1 (= YO from prev. row), K3tog, K to end
    Row 6          K all sts

    Keep decreasing by repeating these 6 rows until you have 3 sts on your needles and then knit your three last stitches together. Weave in both tails.

    Triangular Scarf For Winter Made From Thicker (Worsted) Yarn


    DID YOU FIND ERRORS? Let me know on what page of my blog, and in which row by clicking HERE, and I will fix it as soon as I get to it. You can PM me on my FB Page HERE as well. Txs!
    Also if you haven't subscribed to my HandmadeRukodelky Channel, you can do it HERE. There are many videos to be seen, too.

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    Crocheted Sixtopus


    Rainbow Sixtopus  
    Over the years while living in my area, I met few ladies from my birth country, which of course I keep in touch via Facebook. Occasionally, I share my knitted or crocheted items with my friends, but not too much because they do not knit or crochet. For that, I have a separate page on Facebook for people who are interested in these artful projects. One of my friends tagged me in a post recently where one Czech hospital is looking for crocheted Octopuses for prematurely born babies or newborns in intensive care. I did a research and found out that it started in Norway when someone gave a newborn a crocheted octopus toy into a bassinet and the baby started doing better. So nurses in this hospital started giving babies handmade octopuses and realized that all children with octopuses were doing better than children without them. The word spread out, and now many hospitals in EU are accepting donations of handmade octopuses, and one of the hospitals is in my country, where I will be traveling to in a couple of weeks. I will be bringing them some Sixtopuses.

    Now, when I was doing a research on these octopuses, I've read someone's comment that US hospitals do not accept these handmade toyes because of babies being vulnerable infections. Supposedly crochet items cannot be adequately cleaned to remove the bacteria. And that made me think: "WHY NOT?" There are UV-C light machines that kill bacteria and diseases by attacking their DNA. And I am sure hospitals have such machines. These toys with tentacles help premature babies to stabilize their heart rate and breathing. So it would be beneficial for babies to have octopuses next to them.

    HERE IS A LIST OF HOSPITALS THAT ACCEPT OCTOPUSES

    If you are a visual crocheter you can see Sixtopus video for righties HERE and video for lefties HERE. A free written pattern is below. Make a sixtopus for someone's newborn and make them happy - their baby does not have to be prematurely born to sleep with your Sixtopus :-) Do not forget to wash your sixtopus before you give it away to a tiny healthy newborn.

    Sixtopus from my YouTube instructional video

    Materials (if you shop on-line via my affiliated links below, I would get few pennies, which would help to fund my future projects TXS):
    Michaels on line store, OR Hobby Lobby, OR Jo-Ann Fabrics, OR Walmart 

    Yarn: leftovers of Loops & Thread, Snuggly Wuggly, light weight #3 yarn, your choice of colors  (these yarns were used in making of the video)
    For "Rainbow Sixtopus" (pictured above) I used yarn by Premier, Cotton Fair; 52% Cotton/48% Acrylic; use your choice of colors
    Hook - US size E,  3.50 mm
    Scissors
    Sewing/yarn needle for weaving your ends in

    Size:
    Length of the sixtopus is ~7" (about 17.50 cm)

    Abbreviations:
    ch - chain
    sc - single crochet
    pm - place marker
    st(s) - stitch(es)
    dc - double crochet
    sc2tog - single crochet 2 stitches together (if possible do it invisible way - see my video)



    Step-by-Step:

    HEAD/BODY:

    color #1

    Foundation: magic circle

    Rnd 1              6 sc into magic circle, connect into circle with sl. st
    Rnd 2              *(2 sc in each st )* - 6x; work in a spiral manner, pm (total 12 sts)
    Rnd 3              *(1 sc in 1st sts, 2 sc into next st)* - 6x; (total 18 sts), pm
    Rnd 4              *(2 sc in 1st stitch, 1 sc in each of next two sts)* - 6x; (total 24 sts), pm
    Rnd 5-9          1 sc in each of next 24 sts, pm
    Row 10           *(1 sc in each of next two sts, sc2tog)* - 6x; (total 18 sts), pm
    Row 11-12      1 sc in each of next 18 sts, pm
    Row 13           *(sc2tog, 1 sc in each of next st)* - 6x; (total 12 sts), pm
    Row 14-16     1 sc in each of next 12 sts, pm

    Finish this with 2 slip stitches to slope down the row. Stuff the head with your preferred toy filling.

    PLUG:

    Crochet a circle (a plug) to close the head/body part.

    Rnd 1              6 sc into magic circle, connect into circle with sl. st
    Rnd 2              *(2 sc in each st )* - 6x; work in a spiral manner (total 12 sts)

    Do not cut off the yarn. Place the circle (plug) over the opening of the stuffed Head/Body and crochet them together with slip stitches (see my video).

    TENTACLES:

    Tentacle 1            Either continue with same yarn or start a foundation of 30+ chain stitches with a different color; then on the "way back" toward the head work as such: make 3 dc into 4th st from the hook, *(make 3 dc into each st)* - repeat to end, then slip st into the second st of the circle

    Tentacle 2-6        ch30+, 3 dc into 4th st from the hook, *(make 3 dc into each st)* - repeat to end, then slip st into the second st of the circle
    Note: you can watch my video - link is above - how to crochet these tentacles

    When finished weave in all the ends.


    DID YOU FIND ERRORS? Let me know on what page of my blog, and in which row by clicking HERE, and I will fix it as soon as I get to it. You can PM me on my FB Page HERE as well. Txs!
    Also if you haven't subscribed to my HandmadeRukodelky Channel, you can do it HERE. There are many videos to be seen, too.

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    7 Inch Soles For Child

    I had few requests to make different sizes of soles. So these are for approximately 7" long foot, which is about 17.5 cm. Use these crocheted soles for booties, espadrilles, slippers etc. In the future, I will be crocheting other sizes as well, so stay tuned (subscribe to my YouTube or Facebook).

    Huge "thank yous" to all my wonderful followers for sharing my projects.
    Enjoy, and have fun knitting or crocheting :-)




    Materials (if you shop via affiliated links below, I would get few pennies, which would help to fund my future projects TXS):
    Michaels on line store, OR Hobby Lobby, OR Jo-Ann Fabrics, OR Walmart 

    Afghan yarn, worsted #4 (ie. Loops & Threads "Impeccable" - I used Soft Taupe color)
    hook - US size E,  3.50 mm
    scissors
    sewing/yarn needle for weaving the ends in

    Size:
    Length of the soles is ~7" (about 17.50 cm)


    Step-by-Step:

    SOLES:
    make 4

    color #1 (light brown)

    Foundation: ch20

    Row 1         3 dc into 4th chain st from hook, 1 dc into next 15 ch st, 7 dc into next st; next crochet 1 dc in the next 15 sts on the opposite side of initial 20-chain foundation, 3 dc in next st, join
    Row 2         ch 3, 1 dc in same stitch, 2 dc in each of next 3 st, 1 hdc into each of next 5 sts, 1 sc into each of next 10 sts, 2 sc into each of next 6 sts, 1 sc into each of next 10 sts, 1 hdc into each of next 5 sts, 2 dc into each of next 3 sts, join
    Row 3          ch3, 1 dc into same st, *[1 dc into next st, 2 dc into next st]* - 3x; 1 hdc into each of next 6 sts, 1 sc into each of next 12 sts,  *[2 sc into next st, 1 sc into next]* - 3x; 2 sc into next st, 1 sc into each of next 12 sts, 1 hdc into each of next 6 sts, *[2 dc into next st, 1 dc int next st]* - 3x; join

    Place 2 soles with wrong side toward each other and slip stitch them together with light brown yarn (insert your hook between two stitch of both soles at the same time and pull yarn through, then insert the hook between two stitches of both soles and pull yarn through soles and the stitch - repeat all around the perimeter.) Do the same with the other pair. Weave in all the ends.

    Use these crocheted soles for booties, espadrilles, slippers etc.


    DID YOU FIND ERRORS? Let me know on what page of my blog, and in which row by clicking HERE, and I will fix it as soon as I get to it. You can PM me on my FB Page HERE as well. Txs!
    Also if you haven't subscribed to my HandmadeRukodelky Channel, you can do it HERE. There are many videos to be seen, too.

    *******************************************************************************


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    PLEASE, COMMENT ON YOUTUBE BELOW MY VIDEOS, AND/OR SHARE YOUR IMAGES OF YOUR RECREATED WORKS ON MY FB PAGE HERE :-)

    Shaken Baby Syndrome Purple Hat

    Knitted "Shaken Baby Syndrome Purple Hats"  
    One of my virtual knit/crochet friends shared with several of us, knitters, a link (see below) about donating purple hats for Shaken Baby Syndrome (SBS). Further more, I found an article that talks about the science behind SBS - click HERE if you'd like to read it. It's quite a fascinating read about what happens to a shaken baby, supplied with images.
    The color of the hat is purple because it represents the abbreviation for "period of P.U.R.P.L.E. crying." Watch THIS  EXCELLENT VIDEO to understand this crying period, which is explained by Dr. Ron Barr, a world expert on infant crying.
    THIS VIDEO explains more about SBS and how to prevent it.

    Articles, videos, and P.U.R.P.L.E. hats could help parents to prepare for this difficult time, especially new parents whose babies are more vulnerable. Some children never cry, some cry a little, some cry a lot. And parents of infants that cry a lot will have to train themselves to have a lot of patience.
    The purple hat, if worn by a child, could remind parents to stay "calm" when frustrated, and find ways how to deal with the situation. If you know of any new parents, share the links above with them and knit a purple hat as a gift.

    I decided to knit few hats for the cause mentioned above. See a couple of links below for places that need P.U.R.P.L.E. hats. I hear that hats should be preferably unisex, from relatively soft yarn (not to scratch babies' skin), hats must fit newborn babies, and they should be minimum 50% purple.

    For visual knitters, I made a video of a simple hat (for my right-handed video click HERE and if you are a left-handed knitter click HERE) so if you prefer knitting along click on these links. I made three hats using three different yarns: a sports yarn (#3 - light weight) for babies, and two types of worsted yarn (#4 - medium weight). All same unisex style to be worn by a boy or a girl.

    Places where hats are needed at this time (August 2017) as I write this post:



    Abbreviations:
    CO - cast on
    K - knit
    P - purl
    DPN - double pointed needles
    K2tog - knit 2 stitches together
    BO - bind off

    Gauge:
    My gauge corresponds with a manufacturer's gauge on any yarn label


    PATTERN #1 FOR 

    Both hats were knitted with same knitting needles

    Hat #1 & Hat #2 


    Purple Hat #1 from Snuggly Wuggly yarn (Sof Lilac color)

    Hat #2 from Shawl in a Ball yarn (Mindful Mauve color - use purple part)

    Materials (if you shop on-line via my affiliated links below, I would get few pennies, which would help to fund my future projects TXS):
    Michaels on line store, OR Hobby Lobby, OR Jo-Ann Fabrics, OR Walmart 

    Yarn for Hat #1: about 1/4 ball of Loops & Threads, Snuggly Wuggly; color Soft Lilac; 100% acrylic; 5 oz/141 g; 446yrds/408 m

    Yarn for Hat #2: the purple part of Lion Brand; Shawl in a Ball; color: Mindful Mauve; 58% cotton/39% acrylic; 3 % other fiber; 5.3 oz/150 g; 518 yd/473 m; Note: I made 2 hats from one purple part of the yarn; this yarn is surprisingly soft to the touch

    Double Pointed Needles or circular needles - size #5 (3.75mm), and #6 (4mm)
    Hook - size #D
    Yarn Needle (for weaving in the tail)
    Scissors

    Size:
    Circumference: 13"-14"
    Height: 6" (without the antennae)


    Step-by-Step:

    CO 70 sts on #5 (3.75 mm) long (or circular) needles and knit ribbing

    Row 1              *(K1, P1)* - repeat to end (35x); then distribute stitches evenly among 3 DPNs (24-24-22 sts on each needle), connect into circle (make sure stitches are not twisted)
    Rnd 2-14         *(K1, P1)* - repeat 35x in each row

    Note: Switch to #6 (4 mm) knitting needles and finish knitting the entire hat with this size

    Rnd 15-28       K70

    Decreasing for top:

    Round 29          *[K8, K2tog]* - 7x
    Round 30          K63
    Round 31          *[K7, K2tog]* - 7x
    Round 32           K56
    Round 33          *[K6, K2tog]* - 7x; (total 49 sts)
    Round 34          *[K5, K2tog]* - 7x; (total 42 sts)
    Round 35          *[K4, K2tog]* - 7x; (total 35 sts)
    Round 36          *[K3, K2tog]* - 7x; (total 28 sts)
    Round 37          *[K2, K2tog]* - 7x; (total 21 sts)
    Round 38          *[K1, K2tog]* - 7x; (total 14 sts)
    Round 39          *[K5, K2tog]* - 2x; (total 12 sts)
    Round 40          *[K4, K2tog]* - 2x; (total 10 sts)
    Round 41          *[K3, K2tog]* - 2x; (total 8 sts)
    Round 42          *[K2, K2tog]* - 2x; (total 6 sts)
    Round 43-?       K6 in each row until your tube measures about 4 inches.

    BO by pulling yarn through all stitches, weave in the ends. Tie the knot and give it to some one.


    PATTERN #2 

    For Hat #3


    Purple hat #3 - from Caron Cakes (Bumbleberry color)


    Caron Cakes worsted yarn #4; Bumbleberry (purple variegated) color; 80% acrylic/20% wool; 7.1 oz/200g; 383 yd/350 m
    Double Pointed Needles or circular needles - size #8 (5mm)
    Hook - size #F
    Yarn Needle (for weaving in the tail)
    Scissors

    Size:
    Circumference: 13"-14"
    Height: 5" (without the antennae)


    Step-by-Step:

    CO 60 sts on long (or circular) needles (5mm)

    Row 1              *(K1, P1)* - repeat to end; then distribute stitches evenly among 3 DPNs (20-20-20 sts on each needle), connect into circle (make sure stitches are not twisted)
    Rnd 2-12         *(K1, P1)* - repeat 30x in each row
    Rnd 13-24       K60

    Decreasing for top:

    Round 25          *[K8, K2tog]* - 6x
    Round 26          K54
    Round 27          *[K7, K2tog]* - 6x
    Round 28          *[K6, K2tog]* - 6x; (total 42 sts)
    Round 29          *[K5, K2tog]* - 6x; (total 36 sts)
    Round 30          *[K4, K2tog]* - 6x; (total 30 sts)
    Round 31          *[K3, K2tog]* - 6x; (total 24 sts)
    Round 32          *[K2, K2tog]* - 6x; (total 18 sts)
    Round 33          *[K1, K2tog]* - 6x; (total 12 sts)
    Round 34          K12
    Round 35          K2tog - 6x; (total 6 sts)
    Round 36-?       K6 in each row until your tube measures about 4 inches.

    BO by pulling yarn through all stitches, weave in the ends. Tie the knot and give it to some one.


    DID YOU FIND ERRORS? Let me know on what page of my blog, and in which row by clicking HERE, and I will fix it as soon as I get to it. You can PM me on my FB Page HERE as well. Txs!
    Also if you haven't subscribed to my HandmadeRukodelky Channel, you can do it HERE. There are many videos to be seen, too.

    *******************************************************************************


    Copyright page - click HERE



    PLEASE, COMMENT ON YOUTUBE BELOW MY VIDEOS, AND/OR SHARE YOUR IMAGES OF YOUR RECREATED WORKS ON MY FB PAGE HERE :-)