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CROCHETED SIMPLE BUCKET HAT FROM RAFFIA

Crocheted Bucket Hat from Raffia

I would like to share a free pattern for my bucket hat from Raffia I made this summer. Raffia is a material, that is a little difficult to deal with, but if you take it in small steps, you could persevere in a few days.
Crocheting (or knitting) a bucket hat (or actually any hat) is a creative endeavor that allows you to express yourself, develop new skills, and enjoy the process of making something uniquely fashionable. What do you get out of it?

    1. Customization: Crocheting a bucket hat allows you to make a unique gift. You can choose your favorite colors, patterns, and yarn materials to design a hat that perfectly matches your or someone else's taste. 
    2. Handmade and Personal Touch: Making a bucket hat can be a thoughtful gift for someone special or a way to express your creativity and individuality. 
    3. Skill Development: Crocheting a bucket hat enhances your crocheting skills. You can learn new stitches, techniques, and patterns while working on the project, improving your abilities and expanding your repertoire of crochet skills. 
    4. Practicality and Versatility: Bucket hats are practical. They provide sun protection for your face and neck, making them suitable for outdoor activities such as gardening, beach outings, or picnics. Your imagination can offer a unique and stylish twist to this functional accessory.
    5. Relaxation and Mindfulness: Crocheting is known for its therapeutic benefits. It can help reduce stress, promote relaxation, and increase mindfulness. The repetitive motions and focus required in crocheting can be soothing, allowing you to unwind and enjoy the process.
    6. Cost-Effective: Crocheting your bucket hat can be a cost-effective alternative to buying one. Yarn and crochet hooks can be inexpensive, and you can create multiple hats from a single skein of yarn. You have the added self-satisfaction of making a unique gift using your hands.
    7. Connection and Community: People enjoy crocheting as a hobby. By joining crochet communities, online forums, or local knitting and crocheting groups, you can connect with fellow crafters, share your projects, and learn from others' experiences. 


Materials used:

2 cones of raffia, one in pink and one in black, which I purchased via AMAZON (by clicking on the link and purchasing Raffia, I will get a few pennies, which will support more of your free patterns.)


Abbreviations:

MC - main color (black)
CC - complimentary color (pink)
sc - single crochet stitch
st(s) - stitch(es)
incr - increase by crocheting 2 sc stitches in the same stitch


How To Measure For The Hat:




Measurements:

I usually make my hat a little smaller in diameter because it stretches. I did the same with Raffia material. So for example a head that has a circumference of 21 inches I would use 19 or 20 inches to calculate my diameter. Here I used 19".

Diameter of the top part: 6"
Height: 3.5"
Note: the total hat height is 6.5" without the brim
Brim width: 3" (but you can make the width any size you would like by decreasing or increasing rows)





TOP OF THE HAT

Use CC raffia 

Rnd 1            Into magic ring make 7 sc; (7) 
Note: place a marker (I use a string of yarn) between the first and last st and continue in the spiral way to keep track of the row beginning.
Rnd 2            incr (= 2 sc) in each st to end; (14)
Rnd 3            *[1 sc, incr]* - 7x; (21)
Rnd 4            *[1 sc in next 2 sts, incr]* - 7x; (28)
Rnd 5            *[1 sc in next 3 sts, incr]* - 7x; (35)
Rnd 6            *[1 sc in next 4 sts, incr]* - 7x; (42)
Rnd 7            *[1 sc in next 5 sts, incr]* - 7x; (49)
Rnd 8            *[1 sc in next 6 sts, incr]* - 7x; (56)
Rnd 9            *[1 sc in next 7 sts, incr]* - 7x; (63)
Rnd 10          *[1 sc in next 8 sts, incr]* - 7x; (70)
Rnd 11          *[1 sc in next 9 sts, incr]* - 7x; (77)
Rnd 12          *[1 sc in next 10 sts, incr]* - 7x; (84)


BODY OF THE HAT

Change the color - use MC raffia.

Rnd 13-?          1 sc in each st to end; (84)

Crochet as many rows as you need to achieve the height of your hat. I crocheted 15 rows (Rnds 13-27), which reached the top of my eyebrows. I could have done just 13 rows.


BRIM OF THE HAT

Continue with MC of your raffia.

Rnd 28          *[1 sc in next 11 sts, incr]* - 7x; (91)
Rnd 29          *[1 sc in next 12 sts, incr]* - 7x; (98)
Rnd 30          *[1 sc in next 13 sts, incr]* - 7x; (105)
Rnd 31          *[1 sc in next 14 sts, incr]* - 7x; (112)
Rnd 32          *[1 sc in next 15 sts, incr]* - 7x; (119)
Rnd 33          *[1 sc in next 16 sts, incr]* - 7x; (126)
Rnd 34          *[1 sc in next 17 sts, incr]* - 7x; (133)
Rnd 35          *[1 sc in next 18 sts, incr]* - 7x; (140)
Rnd 36          *[1 sc in next 19 sts, incr]* - 7x; (147)
Rnd 37          *[1 sc in next 20 sts, incr]* - 7x; (154)


FINISH

Rnd 38            Crochet one row without any increases in CC of your raffia.

When you are finished, weave your ends into the stitches. You can sew a ribbon on the inside. You could decorate your hat per your desire. 


Copyright:
You may not sell my written pattern to anyone, and you may not publish it as your own.
However, you may sell a finished product (socks) made by you.

Thank you.
***

DID YOU FIND ERRORS? Let me know on what page of my blog, and in which row by clicking HERE, and I will fix it as soon as I get to it. You can PM me on my FB Page HERE as well. Txs!
Also if you haven't subscribed to my HandmadeRukodelky Channel, you can do it HERE. There are many videos to be seen, too.

*******************************************************************************


Copyright page - click HERE



PLEASE, COMMENT ON YOUTUBE BELOW MY VIDEOS, AND/OR SHARE YOUR IMAGES OF YOUR RECREATED WORKS ON MY FB PAGE HERE :-)




CROCHETED WOOL BOOTS WITH RUBBER SOLES

I crocheted boots before, but never a pair with rubber soles. And let me tell you, this was a challenge. I had to pull a thick yarn through a very tight cotton string base on the rubber soles. 
I started first with a yarn needle. That didn't work, so II switched to a 1.65 mm stainless steel hook. That worked, but I destroyed it after working on my first boot. I tossed it and went rummaging into my hook box. I found another stainless steel hook, this time a 2 mm one. This hook worked out fine, but it was harder to push it through and then pull it out with the yarn. I worked slowly to distribute all slip stitches (my base) evenly. I pulled 51 slip stitches on my first boot but 52 on my second. I solved my problem by crocheting two single crochet stitches together in the second row in order to have both my boots sized identically.
When I was attaching the top part (instep), I made sure I achieved the same number of stitches for both ankles. Each boot took me one day to finish. I think these boots would make a great gift. 

You may not be able to find the same yarn (I bought it a while ago) - I pulled it out of my considerable stash. I would suggest using any ribbon type of yarn because my yarn is in a shape of a ribbon.

ALSO:
Please, consider supporting my blog and YouTube Channel by shopping on Amazon via MY AFFILIATE LINK. Thank you if you purchase anything. And I mean anything. Just click on the link and purchase anything you need. It won't cost you anything extra and I will get a tiny portion of the sale. 💛

Material:

  • 7+ balls (depending on the size of the shoe) of ARTFUL YARNS, Palace, Super Bulky Weight; 48% wool,45% acrylic, 7% nylon; 50g; approx. 27 yards. OR any ribbon-like yarn.
  • Hooks: 2 mm stainless steel (for the foundation around the rubber sole's perimeter) and 6 mm to crochet the boot
  • Rubber soles (I bought mine from Etsy, which was shipped to me from Spain)
  • Scissors
  • Yarn Needle (for weaving in the tails)

Size:
Women's shoe EU 35 (US size 5; 22 cm foot length)
Height of the boot - 7"
Circumference at the top of the boot 11"
However, you can adjust your rows to different sizes and heights of your boots.

Gouge:
2" = 8 sts
1.5" = 3 double crochet rows

Abbreviations:
RS - right side
WS - wrong side
ch - chain
sl st - slip stitch
sc - single crochet
hdc - half double crochet
2 sctog - two single crochet together
st, sts - stitch, stitches
prev - previous

Step-by-Step Directions:

Make 2 of each: Sole Inserts, Instep Pieces, and Boots.

SOLE INSERTSMake 2 identical, but use one on the right side and the other on wrong side

I used my sole as a template for my increases and decreases

I made my sole inserts a little bigger than the rubber soles so I could connect them together with the first row while crocheting the boot.
I used my rubber soles as my template in order to crochet the shape of the sole, which means I increased or decreased according to the shape, checking in each row. In order to make an identical sole I penned down all my rows - this is how I proceeded:

Foundation - ch5

Row 1                 (RS) insert hook into 2nd ch from hook - make 1 sc, then 1 sc in each stitch to end (total 4 sc), turn
Row 2                 (WS) 2 sc in first st, then 1 sc in each stitch to end (5 sc), turn
Row 3                 2 sc in first st, then 1 sc in each stitch to end (6 sc), turn
Row 4                 1 sc in each of 3 stitches, in next st 2 sc, 1 sc in each of 2 stitches, turn
Row 5                 1 sc in each of 3 stitches, in next st 2 sc, 1 sc in each of 3 stitches  (8 sc), turn
Row 6                 1 sc in each of 4 stitches, in next st 2 sc, 1 sc in each of 3 stitches  (9 sc), turn
Row 7-9              1 sc in each of 9 stitches (9 sc), turn
Row 10               1 sc in each of 4 stitches, next 2 sc tog, 1 sc in each of 3 stitches (8 sc), turn
Row 11               1 sc in each of 8 stitches (8 sc), turn
Row 12               1 sc in each of 3 stitches, next 2 sc tog, 1 sc in each of 3 stitches (7 sc), turn
Row 13-19          1 sc in each of 7 stitches (7 sc), turn
Row 20               1 sc in each of 2 stitches, next 2 sc tog, 1 sc in each of 3 stitches (6 sc), turn
Row 21-22          1 sc in each of 6 stitches (6 sc), turn
Row 23               *[1 sc, next 2 sctog]* - 2x,  (4 sc),  fasten off


INSTEP - TOP OF THE BOOT

The bottom piece is my INSTEP piece (top of the boot)

Foundation - ch5

Row 1                1 sc into 2nd ch from hook, 1 sc in each ch st to end, turn (total 4 sts)
Row 2                2
 sc into 1st st, 1 sc in each of the next 2 sts, 2 sc into last st to, turn (6 sts)
Row 3                1 sc in each of the next 6 sts, turn (6 sts)
Row 4                2 sc in 1st st, 1 sc in each of the next 4 sts, 2 sc in last st, turn (8 sts)
Row 5-8            1 sc in each of the next 8 sts, turn (8 sts)
Row 9                1 sc into in each of the next 3 sts, 2 sc in next, 1 sc into in each of the next 4 sts, turn (9 sts)
Row 10              1 sc in each of the next 9 sts, turn (9 sts)
Row 11              1 sc into in each of the next 4 sts, 2 sc in next, 1 sc into in each of the next 4 sts, turn (10 sts)
Row 12              1 sc in each of the next 10 sts, turn (10 sts)

Fasten off your yarn

BOOT

Note: My starting point was at the back (heel) of the rubber sole.

Prep your rubber sole by crocheting slip stitches around the entire perimeter of the sole. For this hard job I used a 1.65 mm hook, which I inserted under each thread (on the side of the rubber sole) and pulled a loop big enough to make a slip stitch, I skipped the next thread, and then I made another slip stitch. I continued this way around, which means each time I skipped one thread and made a slip stitch in the next one.

I was able to make 51 stitches slip stitches around. Place your SOLE INSERT inside the rubber sole - you will crochet both together. Make sure the SOLE INSERT is placed correctly

    The Foot Area

Rnd 1                1 hdc into each slip st and to the side of the crocheted SOLE INSERT (to end)
                          Note: don't use slip st, just continue crocheting in a spiral pattern

This is how finished Rnd 1 looks like


Rnd 2
                1 sc into each hdc (to end)
Rnd 3                1 sc into each sc from prev row (to end)

Place the INSTEP (see above) over the front part of the shoe and pin it so it doesn't shift. Make sure it is not crooked. Make sure that you will place the second INSTEP on the other boot exactly the same way.

Instep before & after crocheted together with the boot

Rnd 4                1 sc into each sc from prev row until you reach the INSTEP part, then crochet around 1 sc into sc and the side of the crocheted INSTEP, then continue with 1 sc into each sc from prev row to last st before the row ends

    The Ankle Area

Rnd 5                Decrease by crocheting the last sc and 1st sc stitches together (= 2 sctog), then 1 sc into each stitch until you have one stitch before the INSTEP part (corner),  decrease again by crocheting last sc st on the side and the first sc Instep stitch together, then crochet across to last Instep sc st and decrease in that corner again with 2 sctog, finish the row with 1 sc into each sc from prev row (to end)


The green arrows represent the ankle ("tube") part,
the yellow arrows point to the 2 sctog in Rnd 5


Rnd 6-11           1 sc into each sc from prev row (I ended up with 26 ankle stitches)
Rnd 12              2 sc in first st, then 1 sc into each sc from prev row (27 sts)
Rnd 13              1 sc into each sc from prev row  (27 sts)
Rnd 14              2 sc in first st, then 1 sc into each sc from prev row (28 sts)
Rnd 15-17        1 sc into each sc from prev row (28 sts)
Rnd 18             1 sc into each sc from prev row until 5 sts from end, then do 1 sl st into each sc from prev row, fasten off (23 sts + 5 sl sts), weave in all tails


***

DID YOU FIND ERRORS? Let me know on what page of my blog, and in which row by clicking HERE, and I will fix it as soon as I get to it. You can PM me on my FB Page HERE as well. Txs!
Also if you haven't subscribed to my HandmadeRukodelky Channel, you can do it HERE. There are many videos to be seen, too.

*******************************************************************************


Copyright page - click HERE



PLEASE, COMMENT ON YOUTUBE BELOW MY VIDEOS, AND/OR SHARE THE IMAGES OF YOUR RECREATED WORKS ON MY FB PAGE HERE :-)






Note: Most of the time I work as fast as I can to keep up with knitting and crocheting requests. I have to videotape, edit videos, then convert them & upload them to my channel. After that often I post on my blog patterns. I answer many questions, which means that often I work up to 16 hours a day. I would tremendously appreciate it IF anyone of you finds an error in the written pattern, so please, let me know - where (what rows) and what may be the problem. Many future knitters & crocheters from our artsy and crafty virtual world will thank you for your good deed, including myself.

COTTON CANDY ELF BABY HAT


In 2015  I visited one small town in New York State. Since I am an artist and an avid knitter and a crocheter I obviously had to stop at a local yarn store. OMG. This lady owner supplies her knitting community with the most gorgeous selection of yarns from many artisan spinners. Most of her yarns are VERY expensive, but these yarns are a pure art form. I wanted to take a thousand dollars and spent it there. Unfortunately, I could not do it. I have a budget and that is just it. So I settled for ONE skein of the most beautiful "pinkiest" and softest yarn I saw in the store. In my mind, I saw a beautiful princess in a beautiful hat! And so did my husband. If I would be younger I would try to have another baby just because of this softest skein of yarn. But... I just bought the yarn. Actually, my husband made me buy it. 
And I decided to write a pattern for this hat as I knit. Just a simple, plushy, soft, gorgeous, pointy elf hat. For a little princess.

This yarn is thick and thin. Very textured. And gorgeously pink. I am sure the computer image will not do justice to the color of my fluffy yarn.

I decided to use 9mm knitting needles and knit a simple pointy hat on DPNs. As I am knitting (and writing this post) I already LOVE how the hat is turning out (and I am wishing I would have a 6-12 month-old baby). So, here is the pattern:

September 2022 update: Yippie,  I have someone to gift this hat to. I decided to make a short "show and tell" video to share with you - you can CLICK HERE (coming soon).

ALSO:
Please, consider supporting my blog and YouTube Channel by shopping on Amazon via MY AFFILIATE LINK. Thank you if you purchase anything. And I mean anything. Just click on the link and purchase anything you need. It won't cost you anything extra.


MATERIALS:

  • A Very Bulky Thick and Thin Yarn (any comparable very bulky yarn you can find and love)
  • Knitting Needles #13 (9mm)
  • Scissors
  • Yarn needle
SIZE:


Step-by-Step:

CO 36 sts and distribute sts evenly among 3 DPNs

Row 1-16          K36
Row 17             *[K4, k2tog]* - 6x
Row 18-21        K30
Row 22             *[K3, k2tog]* - 6x
Row 23-27        K24
Row 28             *[K2, k2tog]* - 6x
Row 29-34        K18
Row 35             *[K1, k2tog]* - 6x
Row 36-42       K12
Row 43             *[k2tog]* - 6x
Row 44-51       K6
Row 52             *[k2tog]* - 3x
Row 53-60       K3

BO by pulling yarn through all 3 stitches. Make ch2. Attach a pom-pom. Sell the hat. Or give it away.


Copyright:
You may not sell my written pattern to anyone, and you may not publish it as your own.
However, you may sell a finished product (any item) made by you. Credit me, please.

Thank you.
***

DID YOU FIND ERRORS? Let me know on what page of my blog, and in which row by clicking HERE, and I will fix it as soon as I get to it. You can PM me on my FB Page HERE as well. Txs!
Also if you haven't subscribed to my HandmadeRukodelky Channel, you can do it HERE. There are many videos to be seen, too.

*******************************************************************************


Copyright page - click HERE



PLEASE, COMMENT ON YOUTUBE BELOW MY VIDEOS, AND/OR SHARE YOUR IMAGES OF YOUR RECREATED WORKS ON MY FB PAGE HERE :-)






Note: Most of the time I work as fast as I can to keep up with knitting and crocheting requests. I have to videotape, edit videos, then convert them & upload them to my channel. After that often I post on my blog patterns. I answer many questions, which means that often I work up to 16 hours a day. I would tremendously appreciate IF anyone of you who finds an error in the written pattern, so please, let me know - where (what rows) and what may be the problem. Many future knitters & crocheters from our artsy and crafty virtual world will thank you for your good deed, including myself.


KNITTED SLEEVELESS LACE BLOUSE - Size Medium

I find myself often looking at all different yarns, thick and thin, colorful or natural, single color, hand painted. I find the artistry behind yarn-making fascinating. I also love variegated yarns - the ones that appeal to my eye and style.

About half a year ago I was scrolling through some websites with yarns and came across Lana Grossa, Gomitolo Puno. There were several very pretty variegated balls on display. So I bought 4 different skeins. Among them, I added to my cart one that was semi-neutral, in a sage/gray color.

Unfortunately, this yarn is now discontinued (what else is new), but you may still find it somewhere on the world wide web. 

If it is out of your reach, you could substitute this yarn with another one - but make sure it is #2 weight (sock yarn thickness). You could use THIS link to find a similar yarn. Or see THIS sparkly yarn from Amazon (an affiliate link).

Please, consider supporting my blog and YouTube Channel by shopping on Amazon via MY AFFILIATE LINK. Thank you if you purchase anything. And I mean anything. Just click on the link and purchase anything you need. It won't cost you anything extra.


Material:

  • Approximately 200g of Lana Grossa, Gomitolo Puno; color 003; 70% Cotton, 19% Merino, 11% Alpaca; 570m/150 g per ball
  • DPNs, Circulars Knitting Needles, Long Knitting Needles - US size #5 (3.75 mm)
  • Hook 3.75 mm 
  • Scissors
  • Yarn Needle (for weaving in the tails)

Size:
  • Women US Medium

Gouge (stockinette stitch):

  • on US knitting needles #5 (3.75 mm) - 1"x1" = 6 sts x 8 rows


Abbreviation:

DPN(s) - double-pointed needle(s)
CO - cast on
K - knit
P - purl
m1 - increase by making one stitch (I used m1R; you could also increase by knitting below your next stitch)
YO - yarn over
SSK - slip knit-wise, slip knit-wise, and then knit them together through the back loop
K2tog - knit two stitches together
M - stitch marker
eM - edge marker
bobble = 2hdc bobble - with crochet hook pull a loose loop through the next stitch, YO, pull a 2nd loop, YO, pull a 3rd loop (5 loops on the hook), pull yarn through all 5 loops; bring the hook behind your bobble and pick up the stitch just below the bobble and pull this stitch through the stitch on the hook; lastly, transfer the stitch from the hook onto the working needle
CDD - slip the next two stitches from the left knitting needle to the right knitting needle as if to knit; knit the next stitch; insert the left knitting needle into the two slipped stitches and pull them over the knitted stitch
KTBL - knit through the back loop
SLS - slip last stitch purl-wise with yarn in front
m1R - make one right (increase)
m1L - make one left (increase)
CCO - cable cast-on
RS - right side
WS - wrong side

NOTE:
While knitting this blouse I used 3 types of knitting needles - long needles, DPNs, and circular needles, each time switching to the best type to knit with.


Step-by-Step Directions
:

SECTION #1

Foundation: to start knitting yoke cast on 112 stitches

Rnd 1          *[K1, P1]* - to end of the row, then distribute the stitches evenly, among 4 DPNs (or use either 2 pairs of short circular needles or circular needles with a long cable), without twisting your knitted row, join needles into a circle
Rnd 2-6       *[K1, P1]* - to end of each row
Rnd 7          *[K7, m1]* - repeat 16x (to end of the row)
Rnd 8-9       K128
Rnd 10        *[K8, m1]* - repeat 16x (to end of the row)
Rnd 11-12    K144
Rnd 13        *[K9, m1]* - repeat 16x (to end of the row)
Rnd 14-16   K160
Rnd 17        *[K10, m1]* - repeat 16x (to end of the row) - total 176 sts

SECTION #2 - PATTERN PART


Work the "8 stitch/10 rows" pattern (the bobble could be substituted with K1 instead):

Rnd 1        *[YO, SSK, K3, K2tog, YO, K1, M]* - 22x
Rnd 2        K176
Rnd 3        *[YO, SSK, K3, K2tog, YO, K1, M]* - 22x
Rnd 4        K176
Rnd 5        *[YO, SSK, K1, bobble, K1, K2tog, YO, K1, M]* - 22x
Rnd 6        K176
Rnd 7        *[K1, YO, SSK, K1, K2tog, YO, K2, M]* - 22x
Rnd 8        K176
Rnd 9        *[K2, YO, CDD, YO, K3, M]* - 22x
Rnd 10       K176; remove your markers

SECTION #3

Continue working the yoke; start counting from 1

Rnd 1        *[K11, m1]* - repeat 16x (to end of the row) - total 192 sts
Rnd 2-4     K192
Rnd 5        *[K12, m1]* - repeat 16x (to end of the row) - total 208 sts
Rnd 6-7     K208

SECTION #4

At this point organize your stitches by placing markers as such:

Rnd 8        (back part) K10, eM, K44, eM, K10, M; (first sleeve) K43, M; (front part) K10, eM, K38, eM, K10, M; (the second sleeve) K43, M (end of the row)

Rnd 9      (back part) *[K1, P1] - 5x, eM, K44, eM, [P1, K1] - 5x, M; (sleeve) *[P1, K1]* - 21x, P1, M; (front part) *[K1, P1] - 5x, eM, K38, eM, [P1, K1] - 5x, M;  (the second sleeve) *[P1, K1]* - 21x, P1, M

Rnd 10      (back part) *[K1, P1] - 5x, eM, K44, eM, [P1, K1] - 5x, M; (sleeve) *[P1, K1]* - 21x, P1, M; (front part) *[K1, P1] - 5x, eM, K16, increase in each of next 6 sts as such: *[K1, YO, K1]*, K16, eM, [P1, K1] - 5x, M;  (the second sleeve) *[P1, K1]* - 21x, P1, M (total 220 sts)

Rnd 11-13  (back part) *[K1, P1] - 5x, eM, K44, eM, [P1, K1] - 5x, M; (sleeve) *[P1, K1]* - 21x, P1, M; (front part) *[K1, P1] - 5x, eM, K50, eM, [P1, K1] - 5x, M;  (the second sleeve) *[P1, K1]* - 21x, P1, M

In the next row bind off your sleeves, and place your front part on the holder (a thick string of yarn); when finished with your 14th round start working on your back part

Rnd 14       (back part) *[K1, P1] - 5x, eM, K44, eM, [P1, K1] - 5x; BO 43 sleeve sts; (front part) *[K1, P1] - 5x, eM, K50, eM, [P1, K1] - 5x, M; BO 43 sleeve sts; do not fasten off your yarn.

SECTION #5 - BACK PART

Keep working back and forth - odd rows on the right side, even rows on the wrong side, start counting from 1

Row 1       *[K1, P1]* - 5x, eM, K44, eM, *[P1, K1]* - 4x, P1, SLS, turn (64 sts)
Row 2       KTBL, K1, *[P1, K1]* - 4x, eM, P 44, eM, *[K1, P1]* - 4x, K1, SLS, turn

Row 3       KTBL, P1, *[K1, P1]* - 4x, eM, m1R, K44, m1L, eM, *[P1, K1]* - 4x, P1, SLS, turn (66 sts)
Row 4       KTBL, K1, *[P1, K1]* - 4x, eM, P46, eM, *[K1, P1]* - 4x, K1, SLS, turn
Row 5       KTBL, P1, *[K1, P1]* - 4x, eM, K46, eM, *[P1, K1]* - 4x, P1, SLS, turn 
Row 6       KTBL, K1, *[P1, K1]* - 4x, eM, P46, eM, *[K1, P1]* - 4x, K1, SLS, turn

Row 7       KTBL, P1, *[K1, P1]* - 4x, eM, m1R, K46, m1L, eM, *[P1, K1]* - 4x, P1, SLS, turn (68 sts)
Row 8       KTBL, K1, *[P1, K1]* - 4x, eM, P48, eM, *[K1, P1]* - 4x, K1, SLS, turn
Row 9       KTBL, P1, *[K1, P1]* - 4x, eM, K48, eM, *[P1, K1]* - 4x, P1, SLS, turn 
Row 10     KTBL, K1, *[P1, K1]* - 4x, eM, P48, eM, *[K1, P1]* - 4x, K1, SLS, turn

Row 11      KTBL, P1, *[K1, P1]* - 4x, eM, m1R, K48, m1L, eM, *[P1, K1]* - 4x, P1, SLS, turn (70 sts)
Row 12      KTBL, K1, *[P1, K1]* - 4x, eM, P50, eM, *[K1, P1]* - 4x, K1, SLS, turn
Row 13      KTBL, P1, *[K1, P1]* - 4x, eM, K50, eM, *[P1, K1]* - 4x, P1, SLS, turn 
Row 14      KTBL, K1, *[P1, K1]* - 4x, eM, P50, eM, *[K1, P1]* - 4x, K1, SLS, turn

Row 15      KTBL, P1, *[K1, P1]* - 4x, eM, m1R, K50, m1L, eM, *[P1, K1]* - 4x, P1, SLS, turn (72 sts)
Row 16      KTBL, K1, *[P1, K1]* - 4x, eM, P52, eM, *[K1, P1]* - 4x, K1, SLS, turn

Rows 17-34    Repeat rows 15 & 16 nine more times, where you increase by 2 sts in each odd row.  In row 35 you should have 90 sts total. Fasten off your yarn.

SECTION #5 - FRONT PART

Work back and forth just like you worked "the back part" starting on the right side (odd rows on the right side, even rows on the wrong side), and start counting from 1

Row 1       *[K1, P1]* - 5x, eM, K50, eM, *[P1, K1]* - 4x, P1, SLS, turn (70 sts)
Row 2       KTBL, K1, *[P1, K1]* - 4x, eM, P 50, eM, *[K1, P1]* - 4x, K1, SLS, turn

Row 3       KTBL, P1, *[K1, P1]* - 4x, eM, m1R, K50, m1L, eM, *[P1, K1]* - 4x, P1, SLS, turn (72 sts)
Row 4       KTBL, K1, *[P1, K1]* - 4x, eM, P52, eM, *[K1, P1]* - 4x, K1, SLS, turn
Row 5       KTBL, P1, *[K1, P1]* - 4x, eM, K52, eM, *[P1, K1]* - 4x, P1, SLS, turn 
Row 6       KTBL, K1, *[P1, K1]* - 4x, eM, P52, eM, *[K1, P1]* - 4x, K1, SLS, turn

Row 7       KTBL, P1, *[K1, P1]* - 4x, eM, m1R, K52, m1L, eM, *[P1, K1]* - 4x, P1, SLS, turn (74 sts)
Row 8       KTBL, K1, *[P1, K1]* - 4x, eM, P54, eM, *[K1, P1]* - 4x, K1, SLS, turn
Row 9       KTBL, P1, *[K1, P1]* - 4x, eM, K54, eM, *[P1, K1]* - 4x, P1, SLS, turn 
Row 10     KTBL, K1, *[P1, K1]* - 4x, eM, P54, eM, *[K1, P1]* - 4x, K1, SLS, turn

Row 11      KTBL, P1, *[K1, P1]* - 4x, eM, m1R, K54, m1L, eM, *[P1, K1]* - 4x, P1, SLS, turn (76 sts)
Row 12      KTBL, K1, *[P1, K1]* - 4x, eM, P56, eM, *[K1, P1]* - 4x, K1, SLS, turn
Row 13      KTBL, P1, *[K1, P1]* - 4x, eM, K56, eM, *[P1, K1]* - 4x, P1, SLS, turn 
Row 14      KTBL, K1, *[P1, K1]* - 4x, eM, P56, eM, *[K1, P1]* - 4x, K1, SLS, turn

Row 15      KTBL, P1, *[K1, P1]* - 4x, eM, m1R, K56, m1L, eM, *[P1, K1]* - 4x, P1, SLS, turn (78 sts)
Row 16      KTBL, K1, *[P1, K1]* - 4x, eM, P58, eM, *[K1, P1]* - 4x, K1, SLS, turn

Rows 17-34    Repeat rows 15 & 16 nine more times, where you increase by 2 sts in each odd row.  In row 35 you should have 96 sts total. Do not fasten off your yarn.

SECTION #5 - BODY

From now on work in the round on the right side, and start counting from 1

Rnd 1       (front part) KTBL, P1, *[K1, P1]* - 4x, eM, m1R, K76, m1L, eM, *[P1, K1]* - 5x; (underarm space) turn your work to WS to CCO 7 sts; turn your work to knit on RS and to join the back part: *[K1, P1]* - 5x, eM, m1R, K70, m1L, eM, *[P1, K1]* - 5x; (underarm space) turn your work to WS to CCO 7 sts; turn your work to knit on RS; join your knit to work in the round (204 sts)

Rnd 2-6     (front part) *[K1, P1]* - 5x, eM, K78, eM, *[P1, K1]* - 5x; (underarm space) *[P1, K1]* - 3x, P1; (back part) *[K1, P1]* - 5x, eM, K72, eM, *[P1, K1]* - 5x;  (underarm space) *[P1, K1]* - 3x, P1; (204 sts)

Rnd 7-?     K204 (remove all eMs) - after you knit your desired length, finish your blouse with a few rows of *[K1, P1]* edging, and then weave in all your ends.


Copyright:
You may not sell my written pattern to anyone, and you may not publish it as your own.
However, you may sell a finished product (any item) made by you. Credit me, please.

Thank you.
***

DID YOU FIND ERRORS? Let me know on what page of my blog, and in which row by clicking HERE, and I will fix it as soon as I get to it. You can PM me on my FB Page HERE as well. Txs!
Also if you haven't subscribed to my HandmadeRukodelky Channel, you can do it HERE. There are many videos to be seen, too.

*******************************************************************************


Copyright page - click HERE



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TANGERINE TOP

ENJOY MY LATEST PROJECT - AN AIRY TOP (BLOUSE OR SWEATER) KNITTED FROM A LACY FUZZY YARN WITH LARGER-SIZED KNITTING NEEDLES, WITH 3D SLEEVES.


Please, consider supporting my blog and YouTube Channel by shopping on Amazon via MY AFFILIATE LINK. Thank you if you purchase anything.




Material:

  • Yarn - DIABLO; Colors: 4 balls of Yellow Ochre (#18); Lace (#1); 30% Mohair, 30% Nylon, 40% Acrylic; 0.9 oz/25g; 246 yds/225 m; 
  • Knitting needles #9 (5.5 mm)
  • Markers
  • Yarn needle (to weave in the ends)
  • Scissors


Abbreviations:
CO - cast on
K - knit
P - purl
st/sts - stitch/stitches
K2tog - knit two stitches together (decrease)
SSK - slip 2 stitches (one at a time), place them back on the needle and knit them through the back loop (decrease)
CO extra st - cast on an extra stitch between short rows to close the hole
PM - place marker
K1B - increase by knitting 1 stitch below the next stitch (then knit next st)
YO - yarn over
BO - bind off

Gauge (stockinette st):
4" x 4" = 16 sts x 22 rows

Size:
Oversized small, or regular medium women's size

Measurements (measured flat): 



Step-by-Step Directions:

This blouse is knitted from bottom to top. 

BODY PART

CO 140 sts. Knit in the round.

Row 1-12             *[K1, P1]* - repeat to end of row (70x)
Row 13-80            K140

Divide 140 stitches into 2 halves - 70 sts for your back, and 70 sts for the front. Knit back and forth. Work your back first, then the front. 

BACK PART OF THE BODY

Row 81               K68
Row 82               P66, put the first 2 sts and last 2 sts on the stitch holder made from yarn, they will be part of the sleeves
Row 83               K66
Row 84               P66

Repeat Rows 83 & 84 thirteen more times, up to Row 110.

Row 111              BO 7 sts, K to end
Row 112              BO 7 sts, P to end

Repeat Rows 111 & 112 two more times, up to Row 116.

Row 117              K24
Row 118              P24


FRONT PART OF THE BODY

Row 81               put the first 2 sts on the stitch holder made from yarn, start the new ball, and K66; put the last 2 sts on the stitch holder made from yarn, they will be part of the sleeves
Row 82               P66
Row 83               K66
Row 84               P66

Repeat Rows 83 & 84 nine more times, up to Row 102.

We will make a "U" shaped neck area, and then BO for the shoulders. Start on the first side of the front on the RIGHT (KNIT) side.

FIRST HALF OF THE UPPER FRONT

Row 103              K28, do not work with the last 38 sts on the needle (you may put them on the stitch holder)
Row 104              P28
Row 105              K25, three stitches left on the needle
Row 106              P25
Row 107              K23, three + two stitches left on the needle
Row 108              P23
Row 109              K21, three + two + two stitches left on the needle
Row 110              P21
Row 111              K21
Row 112              P21
Row 113              BO 7 sts, K13
Row 114              P14
Row 115              BO 7 sts, K6
Row 116              P7
Row 117              BO 7 sts, leave a long tail for sewing the shoulder area together

SECOND HALF OF THE UPPER FRONT

Start on the second side of the front on the RIGHT (KNIT) side; from the middle.

Row 103              Leave the first 10 sts on the stitch holder, then K28 to end
Row 104              P25, three stitches left on the needle
Row 105              K25
Row 106              P23, three + two stitches left on the needle (total 5 sts)
Row 107              K23
Row 108              P21, three + two + two stitches left on the needle  (total 7 sts)
Row 109              K21
Row 110              P21
Row 111              K21
Row 112              BO 7 sts, P13
Row 113              K14
Row 114              BO 7 sts, P6
Row 115              K 7
Row 116              BO 7 sts, do not fasten off the yarn, use it for knitting the edge

Sew the front and back shoulder areas together (on both sides). Knit a neckband/edge in the round as such:

Row 1                  Starting at your back part and on the RIGHT side of the knit, K24; CO 8 sts along straight side; K2; CO extra st; K2; CO extra st; K3; CO extra st; K10; CO extra st; K3;  CO extra st; K2;  CO extra st; K2; CO 8 sts along straight side; (total 70 sts = 24+8+2+1+2+1+3+1+10+1+3+1+2+1+2+8)
Row 2-6               *[K1, P1]* - to end (35x)
Row 7                   BO


SLEEVES - make two

Start in the underarm area. 

Row 1                    CO 24 stitches along the front (or back) arm area, then CO 24 stitches along the back (or front) area, and K4 (stitchers that are on your stitch holder) - make sure there are no holes between the CO stitches and 4 underarm stitches, PM
Row 2                    K2tog, K44, SSK, K4 (50 sts total)
Row 3-10               *[K7, P3]* - 5x (total 50 sts)

Row 11                   *[K1; then increase by K1B & K1 regularly - 5x; K1, P3]* - 5x (total 75 sts)
Row 12-19             *[K12, P3]* - 5x (total 75 sts)
Row 20                  *[K1; then decrease by K2tog - 5x; K1, P3]* - 5x (total 50 sts)
Row 21-30             *[K7, P3]* - 5x (total 50 sts)

Repeat Rows 11-30 three more times (90 rows more)

Finish with 10 more rows (or as many as you need)

Row 121-130        *[K7, P3]* - 5x (total 50 sts)
Row 131                BO all sts

When you knit both sleeves, weave in all the ends. 


Copyright:
You may not sell my written pattern to anyone, and you may not publish it as your own.
However, you may sell a finished product (sweater/blouse/top) made by you.

Thank you.

***

DID YOU FIND ERRORS? Let me know on what page of my blog, and in which row by clicking HERE, and I will fix it as soon as I get to it. You can PM me on my FB Page HERE as well. Txs!
Also if you haven't subscribed to my HandmadeRukodelky Channel, you can do it HERE. There are many videos to be seen, too.

*******************************************************************************


Copyright page - click HERE



PLEASE, COMMENT ON YOUTUBE BELOW MY VIDEOS, AND/OR SHARE YOUR IMAGES OF YOUR RECREATED WORKS ON MY FB PAGE HERE :-)






Note: Most of the time I work as fast as I can to keep up with knitting and crocheting requests. I have to videotape, edit videos, then convert them & upload them to my channel. After that often I post on my blog patterns. I answer many questions, which means that often I work up to 16 hours a day. I would tremendously appreciate it IF anyone of you finds an error in the written pattern, so please, let me know - where (what rows) and what may be the problem. Many future knitters & crocheters from our artsy and crafty virtual world will thank you for your good deed, including myself.

SOCKS FOR 9 INCH LONG FOOT - WITH CAST ON 56 STITCHES

This is my standard, simple sock pattern, where I knit the heel and the toe area with a complementary color. For my complimentary color, I use usually a leftover sock yarn of the same thickness. In these socks, I also added a stripe in my ribbing for an extra effect.

I love my sock cuff to be knitted long, and stretchy all the way down to my ankles - to keep my leg warm.

If you would like to watch my sock musings - HERE IS THE VIDEO that I recorded for my New Year 2022. In it, I talk about these particular socks as well.

I also have SOCK playlists:

For RIGHT HANDED-KNITTERS HERE

and for LEFT-HANDED KNITTERS HERE


Please, consider supporting my blog and YouTube Channel by shopping on Amazon via MY AFFILIATE LINK. Thank you if you purchase anything.


Material:

  • Approximately 400 m of any combination sock yarn; I used one ball of MC - Mayflower 1 Class, 75% Wool/25% Nylon, 210 m, 50 grams; for CC I used leftovers of ONline, Supersocke 100, Color - Savanne, Fingering, 75% Wool/25% Polyamide - about 140 m (total 420 m/100 grams in the ball)
  • DPNs, or long Circulars Knitting Needles #2 (2.75 mm) - if you knit loosely then 2.5mm needles
  • Scissors
  • Yarn Needle (for Kitchener Stitch & for weaving in the tails)


Size:
  • Shoe size: ~ US size 7-8
  • Ankle Area: ~ circumference of K1/P1 ribbing is 5"(unstretched) to ~10" (stretched)
  • Ribbing (Cuff) Height: 6.75” or make your preferred height
  • Heel Flap: 2.25" (reinforced flap - 28 rows)
  • Sole width: 4” flat; (circumference is ~ 8”)
  • Length of the sole heel to toe: 9” (you can make it longer if you chose so)


Gouge (stockinette stitch):

  • on knitting needles size US #2 (2.75 mm) - 2"x2" = 15 sts x 21 rows


Abbreviation:

DPN(s) - double-pointed needle(s)
CO - cast on
MC - main color
CC - complimentary color
K - knit
P - purl
sl 1st st - slip first stitch purl-wise
SSK - slip knit-wise, slip knit-wise, and then knit them together through the back loop
P2tog - purl two stitches together
K2tog - knit two stitches together
wyb-slPst - with yarn in back slip purl stitch purl-wise
RS - right side
WS - wrong side
st(s) - stitch(es)
N1, N2, N3, N4 - if knitting with DPNs - needle #1, #2, #3, #4 respectively


Step-by-Step Directions:

We will work in sections (the cuff, the flap, the turning heel, the gusset, the foot, the toe part) and each of these sections will start with Row 1.

Make 2 identical socks.

Foundation: on knitting needles size US #2 (2.75 mm) cast on 56 stitches

The Cuff

Rnd 1          *[K1, P1]* - to end of the row, then distribute the stitches evenly, among 4 DPNs (or use either 2 pairs of short circular needles or circular needles with a long cable), without twisting your knitted row, connect needles into a circle, start knitting in the round

Rnd 2-70      *[K1, P1]* - to end of each row. Make your cuff as long as you want. I knitted this cuff really tall, about 7.5" tall

Do not cut off  MC - you will continue working with it on the gusset and part of your sock after you are finished with Turning The Heel.

The Heel Flap

NOTE: For the Heel Flap & Turning The Heel I used CC. 

If knitting on DPN's divide your stitches as such: needle #1 -28 sts, needles #2 and #3 - 14 sts each. If you are using circular needles you most likely have stitches divided to 28 + 28 between your magic loops. Work on your first 28 sts (needle #1) only, back and forth (NOT in the round) as such:

Row 1            (RS) *[K1, P1]* - repeat to end, turn
Row 2            (WS) *[K1, wyb-slPst]* - repeat to last 2 sts, then K1, P1

Repeat these 2 rows thirteen more times (total 14x = 28 rows)


Turning The Heel (row by row)

Keep working your sock with CC back and forth (NOT in the round), starting with Row 1. 


Row 1         (RS) sl. 1st st, K15, SSK, K1, (9 sts left on the needle), turn
Row 2         (WS) sl. 1st st, P5, P2tog, P1, (9 sts left on the needle), turn
Row 3         (RS) sl. 1st st, K6, SSK, K1, (7 sts left on the needle), turn
Row 4         (WS) sl. 1st st, P7, P2tog, P1, (7 sts left on the needle), turn
Row 5         (RS) sl. 1st st, K8, SSK, K1, (5 sts left on the needle), turn
Row 6         (WS) sl. 1st st, P9, P2tog, P1, (5 sts left on the needle), turn
Row 7         (RS) sl. 1st st, K10, SSK, K1, (3 sts left on the needle), turn
Row 8         (WS) sl. 1st st, P11, P2tog, P1, (3 sts left on the needle), turn
Row 9         (RS) sl. 1st st, K12, SSK, K1, (1 sts left on the needle), turn)
Row 10       (WS) sl. 1st st, P13, P2tog, P1, (1 sts left on the needle), turn
Row 11       (RS) sl. 1st st, K14, SSK,  (0 sts left on the needle), turn
Row 12       (WS) sl. 1st st, P14, P2tog, (0 sts left on the needle), fasten off yarn (16 sts)

The Gusset (in the round)

Note: For the gusset and the part of the foot (excluding the toe area), use MC color.
You will work from now on RS only in the round. 


You should have 16 sts on your needle #1, and you are ready to pick up stitches along the sides of your flap. Note: If you are knitting on DPNs you will need 5 knitting needles to continue knitting this sock. If you are using circular needles insert markers between the 17-16-17-28 sts (while you're picking up your stitches on the side) to keep track of your sections. 

You will proceed as such:

  • N1 - turn your sock sideways and pick up 17 stitches with MC along the first side - distribute these 17 sts evenly, making sure there are no "holes" between the needles; (this will be the BEGINNING of the row now)
  • N2 - then knit 16 sts; (the "turning the heel stitches")
  • N3 - turn your sock sideways and pick up 17 stitches along the second side - distribute these 17 sts evenly; (second side of the flap)
  • N4 - then K28; (top of the foot - combined needles #2 & #3); 

Note: You should have 78 sts total. Now, we have to decrease stitches on both sides of your flap to get back to 56 sts total on all four needles (or on your circular needles). Do it as such:

Rnd 1            (N1) SSK, K15; (N2) K16; (N3) K15, K2tog; (N4) K28 (76 sts)
Rnd 2            (N1) SSK, K14; (N2) K16; (N3) K14, K2tog; (N4) K28 (74 sts)
Rnd 3            (N1) SSK, K13; (N2) K16; (N3) K13, K2tog; (N4) K28 (72 sts)
Rnd 4            (N1) SSK, K12; (N2) K16; (N3) K12, K2tog; (N4) K28 (70 sts)
Rnd 5            (N1) SSK, K11; (N2) K16; (N3) K11, K2tog; (N4) K28 (68 sts)
Rnd 6            (N1) SSK, K10; (N2) K16; (N3) K10, K2tog; (N4) K28 (66 sts)
Rnd 7            (N1) SSK, K9; (N2) K16; (N3) K9, K2tog; (N4) K28 (64 sts)
Rnd 8            (N1) SSK, K8; (N2) K16; (N3) K8, K2tog; (N4) K28 (62 sts)
Rnd 9            (N1) SSK, K7; (N2) K16; (N3) K7, K2tog; (N4) K28 (60 sts)
Rnd 10          (N1) SSK, K6; (N2) K16; (N3) K6, K2tog; (N4) K28 (58 sts)
Rnd 11          (N1) SSK, K5; (N2) K16; (N3) K5, K2tog; (N4) K28 (56 sts)


The Foot Part

Note: If you need to, reshuffle your stitches on your DPNs for ease of knitting. Each of my DPN had 14 sts. If you are knitting on circular needles, put a marker in the beginning and after 28th st. Knit as many rows as needed - for US foot size 7.5 I knitted 50 rows.

Rnd 1-44                K56

Note: Before you will start your toe part knit 6 rows with CC color (or a few more if you need your socks a tad longer). Then keep knitting the Toe Part with CC. 

Rnd 45-50              (CC) K56


The Toe Part

Rnd 1                    *[K2, K2tog, K20, SSK, K2]* - 2x
Rnd 2-3                 K52
Rnd 4                    *[K2, K2tog, K18, SSK, K2]* - 2x
Rnd 5-6                 K48
Rnd 7                    *[K2, K2tog, K16, SSK, K2]* - 2x
Rnd 8-9                 K44
Rnd 10                 *[K2, K2tog, K14, SSK, K2]* - 2x
Rnd 11-12             K40
Rnd 13                 *[K2, K2tog, K12, SSK, K2]* - 2x
Rnd 14                 K36
Rnd 15                 *[K2, K2tog, K10, SSK, K2]* - 2x
Rnd 16                 K32
Rnd 17                 *[K2, K2tog, K8, SSK, K2]* - 2x
Rnd 18                 *[K2, K2tog, K6, SSK, K2]* - 2x (24 sts)


To Finish Each Sock:

Move the first 12 sts onto one DPN, then move the last 12 sts onto another DPN, cut off about a foot-long tail, thread it into your yarn needle, and using the Kitchener Stitch close the toe gap. Weave in all the ends/tails. Then wear it or gift it.


My Other Project:

TINY HAT AND SOCKS FOR NEWBORN TWINS
Tiny Hat and Socks For Newborn Twins - HandMadeRukodelky ©2020




Copyright:
You may not sell my written pattern to anyone, and you may not publish it as your own.
However, you may sell a finished product (socks) made by you.

Thank you.

***

DID YOU FIND ERRORS? Let me know on what page of my blog, and in which row by clicking HERE, and I will fix it as soon as I get to it. You can PM me on my FB Page HERE as well. Txs!
Also if you haven't subscribed to my HandmadeRukodelky Channel, you can do it HERE. There are many videos to be seen, too.

*******************************************************************************


Copyright page - click HERE



PLEASE, COMMENT ON YOUTUBE BELOW MY VIDEOS, AND/OR SHARE YOUR IMAGES OF YOUR RECREATED WORKS ON MY FB PAGE HERE :-)






Note: Most of the time I work as fast as I can to keep up with knitting and crocheting requests. I have to videotape, edit videos, then convert them & upload them to my channel. After that often I post on my blog patterns. I answer many questions, which means that often I work up to 16 hours a day. I would tremendously appreciate IF anyone of you who finds an error in the written pattern, so please, let me know - where (what rows) and what may be the problem. Many future knitters & crocheters from our artsy and crafty virtual world will thank you for your good deed, including myself.

SOCKS FOR 10 PLUS INCH FOOT - WITH CAST ON 64 STITCHES

My daughter asked me for another pair of socks for a friend. I decided to use my leftover sock yarn - all in all, the leftovers came up to about a little less than 2 balls (2 different kinds of yarn).
My daughter told me that the shoe size of this young lady is 11. Since they are living very far from me and didn't have measurements of my daughter's friend's feet, I had to do some research on how approximately long these socks need to be. And I just second-guessed how wide the socks could most likely be. After much of thinking and poking around the internet, I decided to start socks on 64 sts. The socks are knitted like the "Simple Socks For Gentlemen - Shoe Size 13" - however, I tweaked the number of rows and decreases a bit, and changed the decreases in the toe area a little (made it more round instead of angular.)
Oh yes and don't forget to check my YouTube Channel also - plenty of other detailed videos there.

In the meantime knit some socks for your daughters, sons, other family members, friends... If you need help, see the video for reference. More videos will be posted on my Youtube channel in the future.
(If you see any error on this page - contact me via social media on the left - txs)

SOME HELPFUL VIDEOS:

Material:
  • MC - 1 & 1/4 leftover ball of Patons, KROY Socks; 75% Washable Wool - 25% Nylon; 166 yds (152 m); 1.75 oz (50 gr), color: Blue Striped Rag - total yarn usage approx 200 m
  • CC - A leftover ball of Drops Design, FABEL Uni Colour, Superwash Treated Sock Wool; 75% Wool - 25% Polyamide; 224 yds (205 m); 1.8 oz (50 gr), color: medium blue #103
  • DPNs, or long Circulars Knitting Needles #2 (2.75 mm) - if you knit loosely then 2.5mm needles
  • Scissors
  • Yarn Needle (for Kitchener Stitch & for weaving in the tails)

Size:
  • Shoe size: ~ US size 10-11
  • Ankle Area: ~ circumference of K1/P1 ribbing is ~4.5"(unstretched) to ~10" (stretched)
  • Ribbing (Cuff) Height: 5.5”
  • Heel Flap: ~2.25"
  • Sole width: 4” flat; (circumference is ~ 8”)
  • Length of the sole heel to toe: ~10” (you can make it longer if you chose so)

Gouge (stockinette stitch):
  • on knitting needles size US #2 (2.75 mm) - 1"x1" = 8 sts x 11 rows

Abbreviation:

DPN(s) - double-pointed needle(s)
CO - cast on
MC - main color
CC - complimentary color
K - knit
P - purl
sl 1st st - slip first stitch purl-wise
SSK - slip knit-wise, slip knit-wise, and then knit them together through the back loop
P2tog - purl two stitches together
K2tog - knit two stitches together
RS - right side
WS - wrong side
st(s) - stitch(es)
N1, N2, N3, N4 - if knitting with DPNs - needle #1, #2, #3, #4 respectively


Step-by-Step Directions:

Make 2.

Foundation: on knitting needles size US #2 (2.75 mm) cast on 64 stitches


The Cuff

I knitted the initial 7 rows with CC yarn, then I switched to MC yarn.

Rnd 1-7          (CC) *[K1, P1]* - to the end of the row, then distribute the stitches evenly, among 4 DPNs (or use either 2 pairs of short circular needles or circular needles with a long cable), without twisting your knitted row, connect needles into a circle

Rnd 8-50      (MC) *[K1, P1]* - to end of each row. Make your cuff as long as you want. I knitted this cuff about 5.5" long.
Note: Do not cut off your MC yarn, you will continue with it after you are finished with your heel flap and turning heel.


The Heel Flap

For the heel flap, I used CC yarn.
If knitting on DPN's divide your stitches as such: needle #1 -32 sts, needles #2 and #3 - 16 sts each. If you are using circular needles you most likely have stitches divided into 32 + 32 between your magic loops. Use markers if needed.

Row 1-20      Work on your first 32 sts only back and forth (NOT in the round) - *[K1, P1]* - to the end (of each row)
Note: This heel is not reinforced with slip stitches thus only 20 rows.


Turning The Heel (row by row)

Keep working your sock back and forth (NOT in the round), starting with Row 1.

Row 1     (RS) sl. 1st st, K17, SSK, K1, (11 sts left on the needle), turn
Row 2     (WS) sl. 1st st, P5, P2tog, P1, (11 sts left on the needle), turn
Row 3     (RS) sl. 1st st, K6, SSK, K1, (9 sts left on the needle), turn
Row 4     (WS) sl. 1st st, P7, P2tog, P1, (9 sts left on the needle), turn
Row 5     (RS) sl. 1st st, K8, SSK, K1, (7 sts left on the needle), turn
Row 6     (WS) sl. 1st st, P9, P2tog, P1, (7 sts left on the needle), turn
Row 7     (RS) sl. 1st st, K10, SSK, K1, (5 sts left on the needle), turn
Row 8     (WS) sl. 1st st, P11, P2tog, P1, (5 sts left on the needle), turn
Row 9     (RS) sl. 1st st, K12, SSK, K1, (3 sts left on the needle), turn)
Row 10   (WS) sl. 1st st, P13, P2tog, P1, (3 sts left on the needle), turn
Row 11   (RS) sl. 1st st, K14, SSK, K1, (1 sts left on the needle), turn
Row 12   (WS) sl. 1st st, P15, P2tog, P1, (1 sts left on the needle), turn
Row 13   (RS) sl. 1st st, K16, SSK, turn
Row 14   (WS) sl. 1st st, P16 to last 2 sts , P2tog, (total 18 sts on the needle)


The Gusset
 (round by round)

Note: you will work from now on RS only in the round. Use MC from now on until the toe area.

You should finish with 18 sts on your needle, and you are ready to pick up stitches along the sides of your flap. You will proceed as such:
  • turn your sock sideways and pick up 13 stitches along the first side using a knitting needle and your MC color yarn; 
  • then K18 (the "turning the heel stitches")
  • pick up another 13 sts along the other side of the flap
  • then K32 sts - you should have now 76 stitches on your needles, distributed as such: N1(this will be the BEGINNING of the row) - 13 sts (= first side of the flap); N2 - 18 sts (from turning the heel); N3 - 13 sts (= second side of the flap); N4 - 36 sts (top of the foot
Note: If you are knitting on DPNs you will need 5 knitting needles to continue knitting this sock. If you are using circular needles insert markers between the 13-18-13-36 sts to keep track of your work.
Now we have to decrease some stitches on both sides of your flap to get back to 64 sts total on our needles - we will do that by decreasing while working on our gusset.

Let's start with Rnd 1 on the side using MC (from the cuff)

Rnd 1        (N1) SSK, K11; (N2) K18; (N3) K11, K2tog; (N4) K32 (74)
Rnd 2        K74
Rnd 3        (N1) SSK, K10; (N2) K18; (N3) K10, K2tog; (N4) K32 (72)
Rnd 4        K72
Rnd 5        (N1) SSK, K9; (N2) K18; (N3) K9, K2tog; (N4) K32 (70)
Rnd 6        K70
Rnd 7        (N1) SSK, K8; (N2) K18; (N3) K8, K2tog; (N4) K32 (68)
Rnd 8        K68
Rnd 9        (N1) SSK, K7; (N2) K18; (N3) K7, K2tog; (N4) K32 (66)
Rnd 10       K66
Rnd 11       (N1) SSK, K6; (N2) K18; (N3) K6, K2tog; (N4) K32 (64)



The Foot Part

Let's start with Rnd 1 again for ease of counting.

Rnd 1-60     K64


The Toe Part

Switch yarn color to CC. Let's start with Rnd 1

Rnd 1       *[K2tog, K28, SSK]* - 2x
Rnd 2       K60
Rnd 3       *[K2tog, K26, SSK]* - 2x
Rnd 4       K56
Rnd 5       *[K2tog, K24, SSK]* - 2x
Rnd 6       K52
Rnd 7       *[K2tog, K22, SSK]* - 2x; (48 sts)
Rnd 8       *[K2tog, K20, SSK]* - 2x; (44 sts)
Rnd 9       *[K2tog, K18, SSK]* - 2x; (40 sts)
Rnd 10     *[K2tog, K16, SSK]* - 2x; (36 sts)
Rnd 11     *[K2tog, K14, SSK]* - 2x; (32 sts)
Rnd 12     *[K2tog, K12, SSK]* - 2x; (28 sts)
Rnd 13     *[K2tog, K10, SSK]* - 2x; (24 sts)


To Finish Each Sock:

Combine the first 12 sts on one needle, then combine the last 12 sts on another needle, cut off about a foot-long tail, thread it into your yarn needle, and using the Kitchener Stitch close the toe gap. Weave in all the ends/tails. Then wear it or gift it.



My Other Project:

TINY HAT AND SOCKS FOR NEWBORN TWINS
Tiny Hat and Socks For Newborn Twins - HandMadeRukodelky ©2020



Copyright:
You may not sell my written pattern to anyone, and you may not publish it as your own.
However, you may sell a finished product (socks) made by you.

Thank you.
***

DID YOU FIND ERRORS? Let me know on what page of my blog, and in which row by clicking HERE, and I will fix it as soon as I get to it. You can PM me on my FB Page HERE as well. Txs!
Also if you haven't subscribed to my HandmadeRukodelky Channel, you can do it HERE. There are many videos to be seen, too.

*******************************************************************************


Copyright page - click HERE



PLEASE, COMMENT ON YOUTUBE BELOW MY VIDEOS, AND/OR SHARE YOUR IMAGES OF YOUR RECREATED WORKS ON MY FB PAGE HERE :-)